Petr Aksenov: “The voice of the Fatherland is the voice of the best muse. Parallel fashion: Petr Aksenov

In this article we will tell you the biography of the Russian designer, and also share with you links to social network(instagram, facebook, vk), we have also prepared for you contacts of the designer and his stores. But you can see all the news, lookbooks, shows, discounts, sales and upcoming events of this designer in the section:

Russian designer Petr Aksenov | Pyotr Axenof (Axenoff Jewelery)

The graduate of the St. John's Theological Institute did not even think that the events of secular life would soon take over his thoughts. An ordinary day spent reading the Bible seemed no different from the previous ones. There was just a meeting, just one meeting with a pretty girl who worked in the editorial office of Russian Vogue, spent having a pleasant conversation and looking at Peter’s photographs together. And then the girl, whose name remains a mystery to society, makes him an offer of cooperation. On the set of Vogue, Peter was inimitable, and this did not go unnoticed by those around him. Alena Daletskaya, then at the head of Vogue Russia, had her eye on the photo of the work of Pyotr Aksenov.

Her authoritative opinion played an important role in the further fate of young Peter. And, it started spinning, spinning, away we went - shooting for leading fashion publications, mastering the profession of a stylist (without special education, but with unprecedented potential). Now Peter is trying himself in the field of design jewelry, and it turns out, by the way, very successfully.

How many of our compatriots, jewelers, are known abroad? Someday this question will cease to be rhetorical. And now? Russian modern Art“, according to Peter, is not in demand, is not commercially successful,” therefore it would be much easier to adapt to the style of famous foreign fashion houses, adding only a tiny amount of imagination (and sometimes doing without it). But Pyotr Aksenov, being a patriot of Russia, a man of high moral principles and foundations, boldly challenges the established opinion.

He admits that he himself used to gravitate towards westward in jewelry art. But a visit to the gallery, where the works of Russian masters of painting are presented, greatly influenced his worldview, radically changing his idea of ​​Russian culture.

Our national traditions are not relics of the past, Peter Aksenov proves this by creating jewelry from the jewelry fashion house Axenoff Jewelery, filled with folklore motifs. They are exclusive because they are made in a single copy. The source of inspiration for Peter Aksenov is the history of Russia in the period from the 16th to 19th centuries - the era of power imperial family, the flourishing of the original culture of the Russian people.

Leo Tolstoy's most ambitious novel, War and Peace, has been filmed more than once. And the premiere will take place in January new version: in England, the BBC team took on its next on-screen incarnation. Jewelry for all the main characters, from the modest Natasha to the fatal Helen, was invented by jeweler Pyotr Aksenov - who, if not a Russian jeweler, would dress up the girls from the main Russian novel?

The collection, which will be released in December Axenoff Jewelery is special. All jewelry, from tiaras to enamel earrings, were created by artisansjewelry house especially for the television adaptation of the novel “War and Peace”, which is being preparedBritish film company BBC.The premiere of the series will have to wait until January next year(which is actually not that much: there are only two months left), but we already know something about him.

Firstly, it will consist of six episodes, each one an hour long. Secondly, the roles have been distributed: Natasha Rostova will be played by Lily James, Pierre Bezukhov - Paul Dano, Anna Pavlovna Scherer- Gillian Anderson and Andrei Bolkonsky- James Norton. We decided to find out from him personally how Russian jeweler Pyotr Aksenov got into this British-American team. It turned out that it all started with Peter’s own love for the series “Downton Abbey” - if only the love of each of us for some series was as productive!

How the film crew and the Russian jeweler found each other

« I always wanted to work in cinema, with the team of some large-scale historical film. And one day my friends in London, knowing this, advised me to write to someone from the costume design teamseries "Downton Abbey" - I'm a big fan of his, by the way.At first we were embarrassed: how could this be, after all, such famous costume designers work there, and such stunning ancient jewelry is used! But they decided that the attempt was not torture, and nevertheless wrote a letter to the stylist who worked on the costumes in the series, it seems, in the fifth or fourth seasons. By that time, he was no longer collaborating with the Abbey, but he still responded, promising to recommend us to his colleague. And some time later his colleague wrote to us and said that he was working on a historical film based on the Russian novel “War and Peace” andthat we are perfect for him».

On the difference between the Russian and British approaches

“I have experience working in Russian films - I just finished filming “Matilda” by Alexei Uchitel. And the costume designer there was also powerful, Nadya Vasilyeva. I approved every sketch, every image with her. She told me about everything in detail: here there should be just such a tiara, here two brooches, and here come up with a big buckle. Things had to be as close as possible to the chosen era, we tried to make almost copies of them. And the British in this regard are freer, more fashionable - they value eclecticism, even some kind of irony. Maybe some of the things we ended up doing would have been unacceptable in that historical era- for example, earrings with eagles for Helen, - but the picture turned out very beautiful».

About how the work of a jeweler in a movie differs from his usual activities

“First of all, you don’t work on your own, but in close collaboration with the costume designer. Be sure to study the real fashion of a given era before you begin. It so happened that this time we had a lot in common. For example, interest in cameos: I love them, and we at Axenoff Jewelery make them often. And at the time covered by the events of the series, cameos were in fashion and were considered one of the main decorations. The same thing happened with enamel, with which we also work a lot: this technique was used very actively back then, and to end of the 19th century centuries completely went out of fashion, and no one used it for a long time. In addition, the era itself has always been very close to me. If you were to ask me what I personally like from the fashion of the past, I would talk about the years of Napoleon’s reign, about the Russian Empire style - it’s very beautiful! This is the ideal fashion, from my point of view, which emphasizes natural beauty, without overloading it with either too full skirts, or too voluminous sleeves, or hats, or an insane amount of ruffles or frills - everything is strict and direct.”

About the three main heroines and their characters in jewelry

“In total, there are about 30-40 of our subjects in the frame. H They took something for Sonya, something for Sonya’s mother, something for Princess Marya - she had a simple cross, she didn’t wear any other jewelry. No the main emphasis was placed on three heroines: Natasha, Anna Pavlovna Sherer and Helen.

Natasha has a very minimalistic and clean image, her jewelry is small and discreet:small bow earrings at the ball when she first goes out into the world, crown earrings for going to the opera, an elegant tiara. Our collection, released, was perfect for her heroinefor the 400th anniversary of the House of Romanov - we took several items from it.

Helen is a completely different character. This is an insidious heroine who takes advantage of her beauty, such a seductress. The actress chosen for this role was perfect. In the Russian film adaptation, Ellen, in my opinion, is played by Skobtseva, and she really sits like marble, so beautiful, with an incredible oval face, neck... I imagined her like that. But in the British version, Helen is completely different: she, on the contrary, is full of life. We made bright, eye-catching jewelry for her: long earrings with pearls, fly earrings, a tiara - all with a slight twist. Anna Pavlovna Scherer’s everything is also very noticeable, but more bulky, regal, drawing attention to itself: large brooches, tall tiaras, earrings with cameos.”

About the team of the new version of “War and Peace”

“We were friends with the whole team, with all the actors. By the way, the absolutely wonderful actor who plays Pierre is Paul Dano, an American. In general, it seems that the whole picture rests on him; he played his role superbly.”

Top model, TV presenter and actress. After receiving the title “Best comers girl in Russia” according to Fashion TV, she flew to conquer Paris. And she succeeded - Polina signed contracts with the Houses of Dior, Roberto Cavalli, Jitrois, Levi’s. And as a beauty model, Polina managed to work with L’Oreal and Feraud, becoming the face of successful advertising campaigns famous brands.

Today we will talk with a man who went from being a successful artist, photographer, stylist and found himself in jewelry - Petr Aksenov. Peter presented his debut jewelry collection back in 2011, and since then his business has been very successful. The main motive for the creativity of Aksenov the jeweler is cultural and historical heritage Russia.

I wonder what else serves as a source of inspiration for the Russian master?

I have known Aksenov since childhood. And I’ve been watching him for over ten years now. creative development, V equally, like him - behind my career. With people like Petr Aksenov, there is always something to talk about. And it's very nice.

: Peter, I was a journalist, then a PR director for a film company, then I became a model and actress, and so you, through photography, painting, and a career as a stylist, came to create jewelry...

Petr Aksenov: The main reason why I began to create jewelry is the desire to do something that would be directly related to our culture, to our aesthetics, which would have Russian roots. I was abroad for a very long time - traveling and studying - and I realized that Russia, with all its great culture, are my roots, my origins, my inspiration.

Creativity based on the culture of your country is positive. When I was searching for myself and thinking about what I could do to use my cultural heritage, then I thought about creating clothes, but after analyzing it, I realized that I didn’t want to do it. I have many friends among Russian designers and I understand that this is a huge amount of work and the need for special education. In addition, any designer belongs to the industry, he is not an artist in literally this word. The designer must follow fashion trends. There are, of course, names, such as John Galliano, who have achieved a lot, although the same Karl Lagerfeld, creating things within the framework of his history, his taste, does everything for CHANEL. Of course, as an artist I want more freedom. What I am doing now is what I want to do, and no one can dictate their terms to me. In jewelry art you soar on the wings of freedom! When I started making jewelry, all my other hobbies faded into the background.

: Does your theological education help you in any way in your jewelry work? How does your father feel about your hobby?

Petr Aksenov: Theological education, it is fundamental. It was important for me to get it, and it’s not a fact that the path that I wanted to take in my life would not be completed for me. I do not rule out that I will return to this after some time. I like that it doesn't involve jewelry controversial issues between fashion and spirituality. Jewelry itself exists in the church world. Unfortunately, 70 years Soviet power left a wrong idea of ​​what a church person should look like. Before the revolution, both nobles and peasants dressed beautifully for church, because the church does not teach you to look tortured and poor. I think I'll eventually start a church jewelry line.

: What are you working on now?

Petr Aksenov: Now I'm creating a collection " Russian Crimea" This is interesting, since Crimea has always been the place where the Romanov family vacationed in the summer residence of the Vorontsov princes, the grandiose Vorontsov Palace in Alupka. By doing jewelry, you educate yourself: you travel around interesting places, you communicate with historians, archaeologists, who show you everything and tell you a lot of interesting things. Roughly speaking, this is another opportunity to develop yourself further.

: Yes, why noble class many geniuses? Because these are people who have had the opportunity to educate themselves, constant self-education is very important.

Petr Aksenov: Yes, this is an ideal way to invest in yourself, in creating your worldview. We have such a large cultural background - literature, music, ballet - at the same time there are so many difficult moments in our history - all this has made us great country and the nation. Everything we have in art is so high that we want to strive for it.

: Are many people leaving the country now? What are your thoughts on this? Are you the person who will stay in the country and change it for the better?

Petr Aksenov: I have never thought about emigration, of course, if it is not forced. If I had to choose a country for this, it would probably be France. Perhaps because I studied in France and in Paris, I feel calm there, and I feel a certain closeness between us and the French. I prefer to travel and relax in Italy. In London - look at government structure the structure of the country, which we have lost. Of course, I would not want to leave my homeland, and if I were offered cooperation with a foreign brand, I would work, but I would return.

: For the last couple of years, when you became actively involved in the jewelry business, you have become less provocative and shocking in your life, why is this happening?

Petr Aksenov: I think the point is that I grew up, and all the provocations were because I was just looking for myself. My mother is an icon painter, my father is a photographer, and, in my youth, out of a sense of protest, I always wanted to get rid of a certain burden and what was invested in me. It was as if I was blinded by something, but now I have seen the light and found myself. I regret the time spent in the society with which I then communicated, and I admit the mistakes of my youth.

: As many psychologists say, you are who you are not only because of your education, but also because of the mistakes you made and what you went through... Tell me what you have learned this moment I don't like it about myself.

Petr Aksenov: On the one hand, there is a certain softness in me, and I follow people’s lead. Often this does not lead to the most positive results.

: What don’t you like about other people?

Petr Aksenov: Of course, I’m not entirely comfortable when I know that a person doesn’t like me, that’s his right. The most important thing is to maintain neutrality. Other moments amaze me... When a person treats you badly and deliberately shows it. Or even worse, when people hypocritically throw themselves on your neck and show how much they love you, and five minutes later they unflatteringly discuss you behind your back. But I don’t want to say that I really care about people’s opinions of me, because you can’t be nice to everyone.

I always correct my mistake first and understand that you need to treat people well.

: You always go out with different girls, I’ve never seen you with a regular girl?

Petr Aksenov: Mostly the girls who go to events with me are my friends and clients. After all, going to a social event is a way to socialize, since I don’t always have time for it. And the girl with whom I want children certainly shouldn’t go to such events. Only if she works in this field. Like anyone creative person, I would like my wife to help me run my business and be my muse. My opinion is that social gatherings are not for families. It’s important for me to go to events as a team, I don’t want to personal life project onto secular society. Therefore, for me, going out with a new acquaintance or an old friend is not a problem.

: Tell me about your family.

Petr Aksenov: My parents don't like to show off themselves. I have half-brothers and sisters on my father's side. They are very close to me and I spend a lot of time with them. I help you not to make the mistakes that I made in my life.

: You often add absolutely different images: sometimes you’re photographing stucco, sometimes you’re in a suit in the theater, but photos in the gym are a bit out of place general image. Is this also some kind of shocking thing?

Text: Maria Lastochkina

Petr Aksenov believes that jewelry should cost no more than a dress. And if a girl comes to TSUM to buy herself a handbag or shoes, she will be able to afford Axenoff Jewelery. Aksenov - a stylist, fashion photographer and artist - suddenly decided to start designing jewelry. We asked Pyotr Aksenov about how this idea came to him.

The very fact that he became a fashion stylist is surprising: considering his theological education, it was quite a sharp turn in the life of Pyotr Aksenov.

website: Why a stylist? How did this happen?

Petr Aksenov: After graduating from St. John's Theological Institute, I taught the law of God and church history. And I became a stylist thanks to chance: I met a girl from the Vogue editorial office, and I was offered to take part in a shoot, the topic of which seemed interesting to me. Alena Doletskaya liked the shooting. After this turn of events, proposals began to arrive one after another. I started working with famous brands. I liked the work of a stylist - because film set he decides everything. The picture takes shape in my head: I see, say, how Yevgeny Mironov walks along an autumn alley, in this coat and in these boots, how he moves against the background of the trees behind him and how the light falls. In this case, it remains purely up to the photographer technical function.

website: How did you come up with the idea to start jewelry design?

P.A.:“I like jewelry - I did a lot of shooting for big jewelry brands: for CARTIER, GRAFF, BVLGARY. These are, of course, magnificent stones, a unique design. But I wanted something else - when it comes to my jewelry, the main thing for me is not the number of carats or gold. The main thing is beauty and originality. I like the combination of silver with diamonds, blackened gold with semi-precious stones - just as Russian jewelers once did.”

website: Where did the Russian theme come from?

P.A.: I have always been a pro-Western artist, Russian art I wasn't interested at all. Russian contemporary art is not in demand and is not commercially successful. We are not fashionable. I mean, it’s not fashionable to be a contemporary Russian artist - collectors or foreign galleries don’t buy us. We have practically no Russian jewelers who would somehow use national traditions in their work. So the Russian theme has never been close to me, and the very concept of “Russian style” was for me something on the level of Alenka chocolate. But a year and a half ago I was in Abramtsevo and unexpectedly rediscovered the Peredvizhniki, Vasnetsov, Bilibin - artists who tried to rethink Russian art. I started working on the “Russian Fairy Tales” project (see photo). He came up with a collection based on the jewelry of the Russian nobility and tsars: the “Monomakh Hat” ring, the “Temple”, “Snowflake”, “Vasilisa”, “Rogneda” and “Kupava” rings.

website: It seems that jewelry from Axenoff Jewelery is already becoming fashionable?

P.A.: Yes, there is unconditional interest in them, and not only in our country. Despite my purely Russian source of inspiration, it turned out that they are suitable for stylized images of a wide variety of eras and countries. Eva Green (James Bond girl and star of Bertolucci's "The Dreamers") liked several pieces of jewelry. She used one of the rings while filming Camelot, a recently released series about King Arthur. Another of the rings was chosen by Dita Von Teese. Now my jewelry can be bought at TSUM. By the way, I want my products to be able to be purchased without the participation of a gentleman. That is, they will cost relatively inexpensively - from 500 to 3 thousand euros, approximately the same as a designer dress. In general, my concept is based on three simple principles: I often change the design, I try to ensure that the products are inexpensive and that they are original, that is, original. That's why I make small series so that the jewelry remains unique. Axenoff Jewelery is sold on the first floor of the Central Department Store (2 Petrovka St., Central Department Store, 1st floor) You can view the collections of Peter Aksenov on the website

In 1993, he entered the Academic Art School in Memory of 1905 to study as a decorative artist. Since childhood, his mother's work had a great influence on him. In 2002 he graduated from St. Tikhon's Theological Institute.

After college, he actively works for gloss, helps designers and organizes social parties. In 2003, together with Alexander Novikov, he organized the art cafe “Gallery”.

Showroom of Peter Aksenov

Inspired by Old Russian culture, he produces a series of jewelry and opens a showroom at st. Povarskaya, 52/55-1. The office is located in a mansion considered to be the prototype of the Rostov house from the epic novel War and Peace.

Here the interior mixes many styles and times. The walls are made in classic white and blue. Sketches of jewelry and paintings from different times hang everywhere. Desktop round shape with sketches and samples of future decorations.

Near the window there is a small 18th-century embroidery table that stood at Versailles and now serves as a display case.

There is also a tall cabinet with self-portraits of the Romanovs by Vera Glazunova. Curtains “Peoples of Russia” designed by Olga Thompson. Above the chest of drawers hangs a mirror brought from Paris, and above are bas-reliefs made of plaster, brought from Pavlovsk.

It is almost impossible to buy living space at Povarskaya, 52/55. According to CIAN, one-room apartments located in neighboring houses cost from 23 million rubles and more.

Apartment of Peter Aksenov

An apartment of 85 m² is located on Smolenskaya embankment, 2A in the iconic and beautiful place. The windows offer views of three bridges that the jeweler loves so much: Novoarbatsky, Borodinsky and the metro bridge. The famous car theft scene from Ryazanov’s film was filmed in the courtyard of the house. The apartments here are old-Moscow in layout and spirit, which is exactly what Peter needed to create the ideal atmosphere.

The owner is not a fan of modern styles; he is closer to harmonious and even simple spaces with Chekhov’s motifs, wide window sills, high windows and enfilades. He restored the stucco, significantly widened the doorways and installed bi-fold doors. But, as a modern person, I could not pass by Philippe Starck, who harmoniously fit into the antique design.

The living room has a real collection of antiques. All the furniture standing here was inherited by the owner from relatives. The sofa was made according to the owner’s sketches, and above it there is a huge collection of icons, some purchased, some restored or painted by the jeweler’s mother. Nearby there is an antique round table and the same chairs.

The kitchen is decorated in white and blue tones using classic stripes. The furniture was brought from Arkhangelsk, but above the sofa there is a painting from the Parisian workshop of Valery Koshlyakov.

It’s impossible to call Aksenov a minimalist, but he doesn’t strive for that. Books, large and small figurines, and toys are placed everywhere and are collected all over the world.

The office is also interesting because of its small recess, in which there is a single bed, made to order and exactly according to the owner’s sketches. Here are the familiar icons mixed with photographs and sketches.

One of the wooden chests of drawers was purchased in Paris, and the hares that perfectly highlight the red border of the picture came from Miami.

The second chest of drawers is filled with the artist’s varied hobbies. Miniature porcelain figurines mixed with self-portraits royal family and sentimental putti.

And even the bathroom, made in black and white, is quite unusual: it is replete with details and a variety of styles.

According to CIAN, living space at Smolenskaya Embankment, 2A can be purchased from 10 to 465 million rubles.