Life of the Russian army in the XVIII beginning of the XX century. Organization and life of the Peter's army

Educational and methodological material on folk art

To help the leader

folk group

Ostaptsova Tatyana Nikolaevna

teacher of the department of musical folklore

MAU DO of the city of Kaliningrad "DMSh im. R.M. Gliere"

2016

Introduction

The peasantry is the custodian of aesthetic ideas and traditions in folk costume

Russian traditional clothing is the keeper of the original folk culture, the heritage of our people. The variety of forms and types, the bright decorativeness of the artistic solution, the originality of the ornament and the techniques of its execution are the characteristic features of the Russian folk costume for many centuries. Pictures of rich and unique images of Russian clothing allow us to show the beauty of the compositional solution of the peasant costume, the expressiveness of the decor of its components - headdresses, jewelry, shoes; inventiveness in the use of materials, ranging from precious metals and pearls to fabric appliqués and dyed feathers.

Folk costume has come a long way in its development, closely connected with the history and aesthetic views of its creators. It is an important element of material culture and a genuine phenomenon of great art, synthesizing various types of decorative art, up to the middle XX centuries, which conveyed the characteristic traditional elements of cut, ornamentation, the use of materials and decorations characteristic of Russian clothing in the past.

Objective: consider the characteristic features of the female Russian folk traditional costume, classify the various elements of the folk costume, consider the richness of its forms and types.

Women's headdress

In the Russian folk costume, special attention was paid to the female headdress. The headdresses of Russian women were rich and varied. This was due to the highly developed iconic function of this part of the costume. The shape of the headdress and the nature of its decorations depended on the age and marital status of the woman, as well as on her place of residence.

Married women strictly observed the custom of covering their heads; the girls, on the other hand, walked with their heads uncovered, freely loosening their hair (withXIXin. already rarely met, if only to the crown) or they braided a braid, the headdress was certainly with an open crown and had the shape of a circle or semicircle. It also differed in the material of manufacture (metal wire with pendants on it, a ribbon, a scarf folded in the form of a ribbon, a piece of braid, brocade, fabric with embroidery, etc.).

The shape of the headdress has always been combined with a hairstyle. Girls braided their hair, Russian married peasant women wove two braids and put them on their heads or rolled their hair into a bun in front. Researchers acknowledge that, although braiding is a very old custom, it seems to have preceded it in married women by curling their hair without first braiding it, and by wearing loose hair in girls.

Despite the uniformity of the form, girlish headdresses were called differently: a wreath, a bandage, a ribbon, a bang, a bunch, a bandage, a crown, a korun, a headdress, etc. Sometimes different types of headdresses existed under the same name, sometimes the opposite happened - the same type of headdress called by different names in different places. The most common headdress of the girls of the Russian North was a bandage, which in the Arkhangelsk province towards the middle - endXIXin. "grows" to an impressive size.

The most common were girlish headdresses in the form of a crown or a hoop. Depending on the place of existence, the material for their manufacture was different. In the southern regions of Russia, fabrics, braid, ribbons, beads, buttons, sequins, and feathers were widely used.The color scheme of these headbands, headbands, wreaths is bright and saturated. Dyed bird feathers, including peacock feathers, were used not only in the headdress itself, but also as its additional parts.
Armbands, ribbons, bangles made of brocade and braid, damask fabric and strips of calico with rich embroidery with gold thread, typical of the northern provinces, were made wide, on a thick basis. Sometimes they were decorated with a bottom or duckweed made of freshwater pearls, chopped mother-of-pearl, and beads descending onto the forehead. Volumetric openwork "crowns from the city", corunas, bangs, decorated with pearls, mother-of-pearl, precious and colored stones, and foil have become widespread.

The wedding coruna was a dense rim with a gimp, under which an openwork wreath adorned with pearls, mother-of-pearl, beads, with inserts of foil, glass, and sometimes sewn on brooches protruded. A variant of the all-Russian girl's headdress was a factory-made scarf folded with a tourniquet and tied back at the ends. Beaded pendants served as an addition to it.

The ornamentation of the dress, its color scheme, gave an idea of the age of the woman and the place of her birth. Before the birth of a child, women wore very bright kits, and in old age - with simple ornaments. Residents of the Ryazan and Tambov provinces preferred dark red and black; Orlovskaya and Kurskaya - bright red, green and yellow colors. Usually they were decorated with wool, cotton or silk embroidery with the addition of sequins and beads. The headdresses of the women of the northern regions of Russia were decorated especially elegantly. They used chopped mother-of-pearl and river pearls, colored pearls and glass beads.

Headdresses of the Pskov and Olonets provinces. XIX century.

Kichka or kika - an old headdress of a married woman, which, unlike the girl's "crown", completely hid her hair. Kichka was also called the forehead part of the whole structure, which was duplicated for greater rigidity with hemp or birch bark and covered with elegant fabric on top.

Together with the "magpie" and "nape", the kichka was an integral part of a complex headdress. It was the kichka that determined its main features. The headdress of a married woman could include up to 12 different elements and weigh five kilograms.

There were various variations of this dress:

In the Ryazan, as well as the southern provinces, along with flat kichki, with barely outlined horns on their overcoats, there are headdresses with horns up to thirty centimeters high. In the Tula province, the kichki were modified by means of an additional complex structure of several vertically fixed layers of gathered ribbons, giving the impression of a magnificent bright fan.

Magpies and kichki of the Ryazan, Tula, Voronezh and Kursk provinces.

Embroidery was widely used by painting, typesetting and satin stitch with multi-colored silk, wool, cotton thread with the addition of sequins and beads. Just like the magpie, made of calico and velvet, the back of the head was covered over the entire surface with dense embroidery, often supplemented with gold embroidery. The front part of the magpie was decorated with a strip of shiny lace, "wires" of drake feathers. Tufts of brightly colored poultry feathers, plugged into the side under the headdress, and balls-"guns" of goose down, attached to the kichka or ear, were widely used. Sometimes the auricles were covered with pillows or wings with a braid, braid, beads, sparkles.

The embroidery gave comprehensive information about the woman's age. The headdresses of young women were most brightly decorated before the birth of a child. Gradually, the pattern became more and more restrained, the old women wore magpies with white or sparse black embroidery.

Women's headdresses of the northern provinces of Russia, which had the common name "kokoshnik", differed significantly in their appearance from the southern ones. Unlike magpies, they were made to order by professional craftswomen from factory fabrics. The forms of northern dress, despite the unifying beginning and the name, were very diverse even in the surrounding areas.

The shape of the crest in different provinces was different: in the Kargopol district of the Olonets province, the kokoshnik was made in the form of a hat with a headband stretched forward and lobes covering the ears. On the forehead descended down from chopped mother-of-pearl. The Vologda kokoshnik, called a collection, was distinguished by numerous assemblies over the headpiece. The Arkhangelsk kokoshnik had a rigid oval shape with a rich decor at the top, in the Novgorod and Tver provinces it had a helmet-shaped shape.

Kokoshniki, from left to right: A - two-horned kokoshnik of the Arzamas district of the Nizhny Novgorod province; B - one-horned kokoshnik, Kostroma province; C - kokoshnik; D - kokoshnik, Moscow province, E - kokoshnik, Vladimir province, F - kokoshnik in the form of a cylindrical cap with a flat bottom (with a scarf) G - Two-combed, or saddle-shaped, kokoshnik (profile view).

In most provinces, expensive kokoshniks were worn with scarves. On ceremonial occasions they used shawls embroidered with gold and silver threads with a dense floral ornament. The drawing occupied half of the handkerchief. When put on, its ends folded under the chin. The centers for the production of gold-embroidered shawls were Kargopolye and certain areas of the Nizhny Novgorod and Tver provinces.

Women's headscarves and shawls of the Russian North. Late 19th - early 20th century.

By the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th century, kokoshniks were replaced by easier-to-make warriors and collections sewn from factory fabrics.

Women's end headwearXIX–beginning XX century

Conclusion

Interest in studying the material on the Russian traditional folk costume appeared relatively recently. Only in the 19th century was the idea of compiling the history of Russian folk costume born, and its collection and study - in the second half of the 19th century. Museums and individual connoisseurs began to show interest in collecting folk costumes leaving everyday life. In the middle of the 19th century, on the pages of the Sovremennik magazine, the question of the historical significance of folk costume, its inner meaning and significance in general human development was considered. At the beginning of the 20th century, the International Costume Exhibition was organized in St. Petersburg, at which the Russian department of the exhibition was presented in an interesting way. Historical and modern costumes of the central provinces of Russia were widely demonstrated at the exhibition, the high artistic taste of the creators of clothing was distinguished, which was reflected in the cut, ornaments, color combinations, etc. In Moscow, at the beginning of the 20th century, a society of lovers of Russian clothes arose.

Without a deep study of traditional folk art, the progressive development of contemporary art is impossible. This also applies to the creation of a costume - household and stage. The traditional costume is an invaluable inalienable asset of the culture of the people.Collections of folk costumes kept in the funds of museums are a kind of academy of knowledge and creative ideas formodern fashion designers and couturiers.

Russian folk clothes reflect the soul of the people and their ideas of beauty...The more closely you study the Russian folk costume, the more values you find in it, and it becomes a figurative chronicle of our ancestors, which reveals to us many secret secrets and laws of beauty of folk art in the language of color, shape, ornament.

List of used literature:

Grekov B. D., Artamonov M. I. History of culture of ancient Russia- M.,1951.

Gorozhanina S. V., Zaitseva L. M. Russian folk wedding costume- M.,2003.

Efimova L.V. Russian folk costume (18-20 centuries) - St. Petersburg, 1989.

Zabylin M. Russian people, their customs, rituals, legends, superstitions and poetry - M .: Edition of the bookseller M. Berezin, 1880.

Strekalov S. . BUT. Russian historical clothes from X before XIII century - St. Petersburg, 1877.

Shangina I.I., Sosnina N.N. Russian traditionalsuit: Illustrated Encyclopedia– M.: Art, 2006.

Internet Sources:

Illustrations:

Scanned photos from the above literature

http:// img- fotki. yandex. en/ get/3813/ hor- j.23/0_30582_4 da281 a5_ XL. jpg

HeaddressRussians have always been an important part of the toilet. We know that in the 14th century, men (both townspeople and peasants) wore the same headdress. These were fur, felted or woven hats, reminiscent of a cap, the brim of which turned away and occupied almost the entire crown. Richer men wore good-quality hats, for example, bright hats, made from the soft wool of a young sheep of the first shearing. On holidays, young people decorated their hats with ribbons. Often worn in wintermalachai- sheepskin coats, which were sewn in the villages themselves.

In the 14th century, the Moscow prince was presented with a golden skullcap. He ordered to sew a sable edge to it. So for a long time the style of the headdress, well known from the paintings of artists, became traditional.

In the 15th century, they began to wear small round hats -tufi (skufii). At the same time, there was a fashion to cut hair "under the pot". By the 16th century, there were already several "barbershops" in Moscow. They were located directly under the open sky. One of them was located on the present Red Square, not far from St. Basil's Cathedral. The cut hair was not removed by anyone and covered the ground near such a "barbershop" with a carpet. If there was no money for a haircut, then “under the pot” it was possible to get a haircut at home: something, but there were enough pots in each household.

One of the customs brought to Russia by the Tatars is to wear a hat not only on the street, but also at home (a hat was mandatory on the street). Despite the demands of Metropolitan Philip, Ivan the Terrible refused to remove the skufya even in church. Skufs were of different colors, decorated with embroidered silk and even pearls (only the monks had black ones).

However, the most common headdress remainedcowl, but simply put -cap. At the bottom of the cap were lapels, on which buttons were attached for beauty -zapon(this is where the word probably comes from)stud). Sometimes the lapels were with fur trims. Caps were made from felt, wool, velvet - in general, according to prosperity. Boris Godunov, for example, among his property mentions "a sazhen hat; it has eight straps and five buttons on the holes."

In the 17th century there appearednowruz(a kind of cap) - a hat with small fields, decorated with buttons and tassels. In the same century, they began to wear the so-calledMurmolki- hats with a flat, widened downwards (like a truncated cone) tulle. The murmolka had fur lapels, similar to blades, which were fastened to the crown with two buttons. Murmolki were sewn from silk, velvet, brocade.

We have already said that our ancestors put on as many clothes as possible to show their wealth, nobility - two ports, a zipun, a caftan, etc. The same thing happened with respect to headdresses. They put on a skuf, a cap on it, and on top -throat cap. It was called throaty because it was made from delicate fur taken from the neck of a sable.

Abrupt modificationmen's hats began during the reign of Peter I. By his order, all the city nobility were ordered to wear wigs and hats, as was fashionable in Europe. Ordinary people were not affected by these innovations. Later, the common people had their own fashion - oncaps(caps with a visor), and caps and murmolkas disappeared from everyday life.

The history of the Russian people is so exciting and rich that few modern people can boast of absolute knowledge of it. But many people are familiar with the national Russian costume, since it is customary to observe traditions at any celebrations within the country or on an international scale, putting on native Russian costumes for men, including Russian folk men's hats.

Over time, the development of civilization, the import of fashion trends and styles of clothing, hats gradually changed. Modern historians count more than a dozen headdresses for men of all times in Russia, but perhaps there is no point in dwelling on the headdresses of priests or the helmets of warriors. It is much more interesting to consider the headdresses of the nobility and the common people.

If we consider men of a simple class, in this case, the national costume will be concise and simple. Peasant clothes were then sewn from natural materials, decorating with floral patterns. It was a shirt of their light cotton fabric with a free cut, voluminous pants and a belt to them. On the head, ordinary people put on hats in the form of buckwheat, which really resembled the shape of a buckwheat pie in shape and texture, and felt boots for every day or leather boots for festive events served as shoes.

The most important element of the men's national costume was considered to be a shirt with silk or linen embroidery, and a lining (underlying) was attached to its front and back parts. The shirt always had wide sleeves, which gradually narrowed to the area of the hands. The collar of the shirt could be round or square with buttons or ties, sometimes there was none at all.

The caftan of bright colors and several styles acted as outerwear - opashen, zipun and okhaben. But first, men put on a scroll, a casing or a sermyaga over the shirt. If an important holiday or celebration was expected, the man put on a ceremonial cloak of a corset or woolen single-row. In the cold season, floor-length fur coats made of sheepskin or hare fur were worn, and the nobility could afford a fur coat made of sable, fox, silver fox or marten.

For reference! The Russian national costume assumed natural fur coats on the inside, in order to thereby keep warm. And on top of the fur coat sheathed with dense expensive cloth, velvet or brocade. And only on the collar they left fur, emphasizing their social position.

Traditional male headdress at different times with a photo

During the period of the 14th century in Russia, the male Russian headdress for all representatives of the stronger sex was of the same style and appearance. These were hats made of fur, felt, wickerwork, which resembled a cap in shape. Noble men wore bright hats made of expensive sheepskin. In winter, they wore malakhai hats, that is, earflaps that tightly covered their heads from the harsh Russian winters.

In the 14th century, for the first time among Russians, a skullcap appeared, a sable edge was sewn to it, after which a new traditional Russian headdress for men appeared.

Further, in the 15th century, small hats appeared, covering only the crown - tufi. At the same time, there was a fashion for cutting hair under a pot, which looked harmoniously in tandem with such a headdress. On the street, men put on a tufa, and on top of it a cap or malachai.

At the same time, and closer to the 16th century, a cap, a cone-shaped hat and a wide lapel made of fur, remained popular in tandem with tyufya. Buttons were attached to the lapels, which were called zapons. The materials for making caps are velvet, poyarka, felt.

In the period of the 17th century, the men's Russian folk hat became popular - nauruz, which was a kind of cap familiar to the Russian people. But it was a hat with neat and small lapels, decorated with tassels and buttons.

Later in the same century, murmolka hats appeared, which had a flat and expanded crown, resembling a truncated cone. A fur lapel was attached to the hat, which resembled a blade, and a pair of buttons held the lapel. They made such wardrobe items from velvet, silk, brocade.

After some time, men began to put on not only a tyuf, a cap, but also a throat cap over it. The name of the product was due to the fact that it was made from sable necks.

The final stage in the development of national men's hats in Russia was the coming to power of Peter I, who "opened a window to Europe." On his orders, the nobility began to wear wigs, as well as hats imported from European developed countries.

Casual men's hats

If we do not consider the above options for headdresses, which were preferred by noble individuals, the following models of hats can be attributed to the everyday headdresses of peasants:

barlovka - a round-shaped hat made of barl skins with a low band without ears;
Bril - a straw hat with a brim and a flat low crown to protect from the sun;
burk - an old men's hat made of fox fur, with a neat band and without ears, tightly fitting to the head;
yarmulke - a hat made of sheep's wool, the top of which has the shape of a truncated cone;
buckwheat - this headdress was mentioned earlier;
zyryanka - a cloth dress with a square bottom;
cap or cap - a Russian hat made of simple materials with a visor;
kragan - a headdress in the form of a hood made of homemade cloth;
jug - a tight-fitting hat made of gray sheepskin with a round crown;
malachai - a hat with a square end and four flaps made of cloth, ververet, fur or sheepskin;
the stolbunets hat is an analogue of the throat cap, but it tapers upwards and is supplemented with fur in the back of the head.

According to some historians, the idea of a kokoshnik was brought by Byzantine merchants. Be that as it may, it is considered a traditional Russian headdress. Married women in Russia did not go uncovered. “To goof off” was considered both a sin and a disgrace. And the kokoshnik was considered the privilege of unmarried girls. At the same time, the hair is partially open - for young girls this was acceptable. The festive kokoshnik impressed with its elegance and beauty. It was embroidered with pearls, decorated as far as imagination was enough. For this reason, a large and wide headdress was available only to girls from wealthy families. In the article, we will consider how to make Russian women's hats with our own hands.

Execution Technology

In its shape, the headdress resembles a fan:

A homemade kokoshnik is made from thin cardboard or using metal tape.
The base is made from various types of textiles - canvas, calico, brocade or velvet.
The upper part is decorated as the craftswoman's fantasy suggests. Artificial and natural freshwater pearls, glass beads, beads, brocade, beads, flowers - this list goes on and on.
Ribbons are sewn on both sides, which are needed in order to securely fix the finished product.

Important! There are kokoshniks with braided decoration covering the entire forehead. Sometimes the product is made so that the translucent fabric completely covers the back of the hair.

Consider 2 manufacturing techniques: simple and somewhat more complex.

Option 1

This option for making a Russian headdress is associated with the assembly of a cardboard product:

Make a pattern. It's not difficult at all, even if you don't have a hint of artistic ability.
Using the resulting pattern, transfer the outline to the cardboard. This is the base of the comb. Further, the resulting frame will be used as a pattern for making the front and back of the headdress from fabric. From fabrics it is best to use satin, brocade or satin.

Important! When cutting out details from textiles, be sure to consider seam allowances (1-2 cm).

Suppose you want to decorate the finished product with textiles. Cut out flowers, stars, geometric shapes from fabric.
Stick the resulting decor on the dublerin - for extra rigidity.
Sew together the front and back halves of the cover cut out of the fabric. Bend the material inward. Leave the bottom edge unsewn so that you can turn the product inside out and put it on the frame.
Put a cover made of fabric on a cardboard frame. Sew up the bottom. You can do it manually.
On both sides, sew elastic bands or ribbons that will hold the entire structure on the head.
Attach decor. Decorate the kokoshnik in the direction from the edges to the center.

Important! Don't overdo the decorations. Cardboard is not a very strong material, so it is unlikely to withstand a lot of weight.

If you own the technique of beading, decorate the frontal part with a thin mesh of beads.

Option 2

This is a do-it-yourself technique for making a Russian female headdress on a metal frame.

So, you will need:

Steel 3mm wire.
Thick cardboard.
Pliers.
Brocade.
Tapes.
Decor.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

Make a wire rim. In order for the product to turn out beautiful, it is necessary that the shape be perfectly maintained.
Cut out the base from cardboard. This is the part of the product that is adjacent to the head.
Cut out 2 base pieces from the fabric. You need to do this in advance, because when the base is sewn to the metal rim, it is unlikely that you will be able to make accurate patterns.
Sew the cardboard base to the metal rim. The stitch pitch is 5 mm. More frequent stitches do not need to be done, because the cardboard will simply tear.
Follow the same principle to complete the upper part of the headdress (comb). After everything is done, sew it to the wire base.
Sew all the details of the fabric into a single whole. Gently put on the base.
Sew on the bottom base, and then the ribbons.
The last stage is the decoration of the finished product. Do-it-yourself Russian folk headdress for a girl can be decorated as your imagination tells you.

In the old days in Russia, girls and women loved luxurious outfits no less than today. Particular attention was paid to headdresses. They were made of the best fabrics, decorated with silver and gold embroidery, sequins, beads and pearls. Our review contains 18 photos of headdresses worn by women a couple of hundred years ago.

In the Russian folk costume, a special place was occupied by a female headdress. Looking at it, one could determine what locality its owner was from, how old she was, her social and marital status.

Traditionally, the form of the Russian folk headdress was combined with a hairstyle. Girls braided a braid, and their headdress most often looked like a bandage or a hoop with an open crown.

Married peasant women braided two braids and rolled them in front into a bun. The headdress was supposed to completely hide the stripes of a married woman. Traditional women's headdresses in the Russian folk costume consisted, as a rule, of several parts.

Kichka - part of a kichko-shaped headdress on a solid basis. Kichki differed in a variety of styles. They were horned, hoof-shaped, spade-shaped, bowler-shaped, in the form of a hoop, oval, semi-oval - the fantasy of solutions was unlimited.

In the Ryazan, Tula, Kaluga, Oryol provinces, as a rule, horned kichki were worn. In Vologda and Arkhangelsk - hoof-shaped kichki. Recent researchers associate with the Finno-Ugric ancestors (X-XIII centuries), who had similar headdresses.

Magpie - the so-called upper decorated headdress. It was made of fabric and stretched over a kichka.
Another element of the kichkoobrazny headdress is the butt pad. It was made of fabric (usually brocade) or beaded. The nape was tied at the back under the magpie in order to hide the woman's hair from behind.

The kokoshnik, unlike the magpie, was only a festive headdress, including a wedding one. In the northern provinces, it was often decorated with pearls. If the kichka was worn by peasant women, then merchants and bourgeois women put a kokoshnik on their heads.

Kokoshniks were made in monasteries or craftswomen in large villages and sold at fairs. By the end of the 19th century, the kokoshnik almost completely replaced the kichka, and then the kokoshnik left the arena, giving way to scarves. At first, scarves were tied over a headdress, and later as a separate headdress, pinned or tied under the chin.

You can imagine what Russian women looked like by looking at the gallery from.