Famous people love. Memoir essay about Old Lublin - messie_anatol

The estate "Kuzminki", which arose in the 18th century on the former lands of the Simonov and Nikolo-Ugreshsky monasteries, for two centuries belonged to the barons Stroganovs and princes Golitsyns.

The history of the Kuzma land enriches the national history with toponymy - the name of the area Kuzminki, hydronymy - the names of the rivers Churilikha and Goledyanka. Burials of the 13th century have been preserved on its territory - the remains of a residential building with a partially preserved oven and fragments of a stone and adobe structure. - the rarest archaeological find on the territory of Moscow.

It should be noted that even today the valley of the united rivers with an overgrown pond, located between the Kuzminsky and the new Lyublinsky ponds, is a natural landscape with mesotrophic bog complexes unique for Moscow. The surface of the floodplain is swampy, in areas of which water-saturated swamp peat deposits occur from the surface. The riverbed is characterized by the presence of numerous springs. Currently, this area of ​​five and a half hectares is protected as a natural monument.

It should be noted that the estate was not created as a closed summer residence, fenced off from the world around it. Neither before Prince M. M. Golitsyn, nor after him in the 19th century, the estate had clearly defined boundaries, gradually merging with the surrounding forests. Thus, one of the first landscape parks in Moscow at the end of the 18th century was created in the Kuzminskaya estate, which was an example to follow in other landlord estates. So, for example, following the model of the summerhouse beyond the river in Kuzminki, in 1801 in Pavlovsk the statue of the hero of antiquity Apollo was moved to a new place - opposite the princely palace across the river.

It is worth adding that Kuzminki, in turn, adopted the best when creating a landscape park. Following the example of Pavlovsky Park, at the end of the 18th century in Kuzminki, in a pine grove, a twelve-beam clearing of a regular (French) park was cut through, in the center of which a round platform was arranged, in the center of it a statue of Apollo was placed (copies for Pavlovsk and Kuzminki were made by the sculptor F.I. . Gordeev). Plaster statues of the Muses were located around the area near each of the alleys. And today the 12-beam clearing of the French park is a great attraction of Kuzminki. It is worth noting another feature of Kuzminki: the continuation of the continuity of the Pavlovian principle of decorating the park. An example of this is the cast-iron "Triumphal Gates", which in all its parts, with the exception of the top - the coat of arms, coincide with the "Nikolaev Gates" in Pavlovsk near St. Petersburg, built in 1826 by C. I. Rossi. This project was carried out at the Pashiy iron foundries of Prince S. M. Golitsyn I and three years later it was repeated a second time to decorate Kuzminki. This once again proves how close the two estates are in terms of park construction. Muscovites subsequently even began to call the village of Vlakhernskoye "Moscow Pavlovsk".

The estate "Kuzminki" itself is a high level of art. The work of architects, foundry workers, artists, sculptors, park construction specialists is of great value in the national culture. Such venerable architects, sculptors and artists of the 18th-19th centuries created their creations in Kuzminki: Domenico (in Russia he was called Dementy Ivanovich) Gilardi, A.G. Grigoriev, A.N. Voronikhin, M.D. Bykovsky, K. I. Rossi, P. K. Klodt von Jurgensburg, Artari, S. P. Campioni, I. P. Vitali, F. P. Krentan, who left behind vivid examples of creativity.

If we talk about the work of the architect Domenico Gilardi in Kuzminki, it is worth noting the following. He built a lot in Moscow and its environs, but everywhere they were separate buildings. And only in Kuzminki the architect was able to leave a memory of himself as the author of a single architectural and park ensemble, since here, according to the project of the architect, the entire estate was completely restored: from park paths and benches to fundamental structures. This played a positive role in the fact that the Kuzminki estate was eventually imbued with a unity of design, style and execution, which distinguished it from many Russian estates. The skillful hand of the architect turned the horse yard into one of the best achievements of the Empire style in Russia. The highlight of the courtyard was the famous Musical Pavilion, included in the catalog of world masterpieces.

The entire creative biography of the architect M. D. Bykovsky is connected with the Kuzminki estate near Moscow, doing alterations, repairs, decorating the interiors of houses, as well as creating independent works - a house and a stone bridge on a dam, monuments to Emperor Peter the Great, Nicholas I, Dowager Empress Maria Fedorovna, tombstone to Prince S. M. Golitsyn I in the aisle of St. Sergius of Radonezh of the Church of the Blachernae Icon of the Mother of God.

In addition, it is worth noting that such an abundance of cast iron products, as in Kuzminki, could not be found in any estate near Moscow. Cast iron products in the amount of 250 units were genuine works of art. So, for example, floor lamps cast from cast iron with richly ornamented plant stems that "grow" from the base, consisting of four winged griffins. Animals-birds sit on the diagonals of the pedestal, leaning on the forward lion paws. Expressive winged griffins and one hundred and seventy years ago, and today are the hallmark of the estate. In any literature, famous sculptural compositions are presented as an illustration of Kuzminki. This gives grounds to put forward the point of view that the Kuzminki estate can be regarded as a kind of open-air museum of small architectural form.

Great artistic taste gave the fatherland beautiful monuments of architecture. So, the original view of the Egyptian pavilion both then and now makes an impressive impression. The sloping walls and windows of the building resemble a truncated pyramid. In the center of the building there is a shallow portico-loggia with two columns intercepted by relief cords with papyrus-shaped capitals. On the walls of the loggia there are sculptural details on Egyptian ritual themes. This is the only building of its kind in architectural Moscow.

Many events that took place in the estate "Kuzminki" complement the national history. So, for example, the clergyman of the local parish and everyday writer N. A. Poretsky describes a hurricane that swept over the southeast of the Moscow region on June 16, 1904, which destroyed up to 100,000 trees in Kuzminsky Park. In addition to the local description, he gives a vivid description of the ill-fated summer.

N. A. Poretsky also mentions the cholera epidemics of 1830 and 1871, which became a tragedy for all of Russia.

Moreover, he, apparently, according to the stories of old-timers, described the hot summer of 1871 - the reason for the spread of cholera infection: “The summer was as hot as ever. There was almost no rain. Everything burned down." In Kuzminki, only one inhabitant died of cholera. The residents themselves allegedly saved themselves by making a procession around the village with the Blachernae Icon of the Mother of God.

The history of the Blachernae parish is an integral part of the history of Russian Orthodoxy. “Vlakherna was the only place near Moscow where Muscovites flocked in such a multitude for a walk on July 2 ... to the only Moscow nobleman.” “On the temple feast of July 2, there were great festivities here, in terms of the vastness of the place and the crowd, they were only slightly inferior to the festivities on May 1 in Sokolniki and Semika in Maryina Roshcha,” contemporaries noted.

The Church of the Blachernae Icon of the Mother of God in Kuzminki was not inferior to many Moscow churches in terms of the elegance of the interior and the richness of the sacristy. The inner walls of the temple were lined with expensive Spanish Carara marble. Chimes were installed on the bell tower.

Regarding the church in Kuzminki and increased attention to it from modern connoisseurs of ancient Russian painting, it is worth noting the family heirloom of the Stroganovs, and later of the princes Golitsyns - the Blachernae Icon of the Mother of God, which was in the local church from 1725 to 1929.

The indisputable value of icons lies in the technique of their execution - "encaustic" (exaustix - I burn out) - an ancient painting technique. The wax paint was melted, and due to the rapid cooling of the wax, great skill was required from the manufacturer when applying the composition to the heated board, creating a relief image of the Mother of God and the baby, while imitating carving. In 1654, the icon and three copies of it were donated by the Patriarch of Constantinople to the Russian Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich. The tsar presented one of them to the Stroganov merchants.

A special place should be given to the Kuzma hospital, established by Prince S. M. Golitsyn in 1816, which was not a frequent occurrence in landowner estates. The hospital was the only one in the district, numbering about eighty settlements. This circumstance played an important role in the popularity of Kuzminok. Until 1869, the hospital was fully maintained at the expense of the princes Golitsyn, all medical consultations and medicines were free of charge. In the aforementioned year, the hospital was transferred to the Moscow district zemstvo and transferred to the building of the former cattle yard of the same estate.

In the history of Russian culture, it is worth noting that it was in the hospital in Kuzminki in 1882 that the artist V. G. Perov was recovering. Here, in Kuzminki, he died. On the day of his death, many representatives of the cultural society came to Kuzminki to see the artist on his last journey.

In the same hospital, as a boy, the poet F.S. Shkulev was being treated.

Many wonderful and glorious names are associated with Kuzminki. Visits of historical figures entered the annals of the Kuzma land.

It is known that Tsar Peter I visited here in 1722. A contemporary of the Peter the Great era, V. A. Nashchokin, left information about his stay in his notes: , which is reputed to be the Mill, advanced to Moscow from the ongo of the Persian campaign in triumph.

Until the middle of the 19th century, a wooden house was still preserved, where Peter the Great stayed. In 1848, a cast-iron obelisk was built in its place (architect M. D. Bykovsky).

The estate "Kuzminki" was visited by Generalissimo V. A. Suvorov with his wife Varvara Ivanovna (nee Prozorovskaya) after the wedding; Empress Dowager Maria Feodorovna (wife of Emperor Paul I), whose visit was marked by a cast-iron monument unveiled in 1828; Emperor Nicholas I, in whose memory a cast-iron monument was erected in 1856.

In 1837, after returning from a Siberian trip, Tsarevich Alexander Nikolaevich (future Emperor Alexander II), accompanied by a teacher-poet V.A. Zhukovsky visited Kuzminki. The next visit to Alexander Nikolaevich by Emperor Alexander II took place in 1858, when, on his way to the Nikolo-Ugreshsky Monastery, he and his wife Maria Alexandrovna stopped in Kuzminki to visit the sick Prince S.M. Golitsyn.

Kuzminki was visited by Fitztum von Eckstedt, a Saxon diplomat at the St. Petersburg and London courts, who noted that the estate was “an exemplary farm in the majestic style, erected in the middle of the bare steppe,” and a delegation of American sailors led by Admiral Fox, where they were given a magnificent reception.

In addition to high-ranking officials, writers, artists, and politicians visited Kuzminki. It was in Kuzminki at the dacha of the Elizarovs V.I. Ulyanov (Lenin) finished the pamphlet "What are the 'friends of the people' and how do they fight against the Social Democrats?". Priest John of Kronstadt delighted the inhabitants of the village of Blachernae with his visit.

Kuzminki inspired artists, poets, writers. In their works, noting the local beauty, the writers reflected in picturesque language the grandeur and nobility of architecture and nature, which raised Kuzminki to the pinnacle of fame. Kuzminki - the village of Vlakhernskoe had a well-deserved reputation as an artistic treasury of Russian culture and were well known not only here in Russia, but also abroad according to the engravings by J. N. Rauch published in 1841 in Paris “Views of the village of Vlakhernskoye (Mills), belonging to the book. S. M. Golitsyn. “No other noble estate near Moscow has such a large and rich illustrative material,” says M. Yu. Korobko.

The village of Blachernae "is hardly inferior to any magnificent Italian villa with a marble palazzo, velvet meadows and a mirror lake," noted contemporaries of Prince S. M. Golitsyn. “Here, every step is art,” wrote the everyday writer Kuzminok N. A. Poretsky.

The picturesque places of the estate "Kuzminki" inspired the artist V. A. Serov, who painted the painting "The Ruler on the Way from Moscow to Kuzminki" (Russian Museum in St. Petersburg), highly appreciated by I. E. Grabar, who, in turn, left the painting canvas overlooking the bathroom house of the Kuzminki estate.

In 1918, the estate was transferred to the State (later All-Union, All-Russian) Institute of Experimental Veterinary Medicine, which used its buildings and land for their own purposes, excluding the historical and architectural value of the estate. The village council, created on the basis of the former Kuzminki estate, also solved problems in detour of the interests of its preservation.

Despite the attempt of the Collegium for Museum Affairs and the Protection of Monuments of Art and Antiquity to protect the estate from destruction, the estate was left behind by the institute with the placement of laboratories and apartments for employees in the buildings. Part of the Golitsyn forest was assigned to local forests for neighboring villages.

The struggle of atheists with the Church turned for the Blachernae parish into its abolition in 1929, the arrest and exile of the rector N. A. Poretsky. The building of the temple was rebuilt, having carried out internal redevelopment, destroying the grave of Prince S. M. Golitsyn and arranging a hostel for graduate students there. The bell tower was blown up, the sacristy was adapted for a laboratory.

In 1929, Rudmetalltorg was given most of the cast iron products of the estate. To this day, horses and griffins with lions have miraculously survived. In 1936, the reconstruction of Kuzminsky Park began with the construction of a cafe, stage and board games pavilions.

During the Great Patriotic War, an anti-aircraft artillery regiment was located in Kuzminki, tank units were stationed, regiments were being formed, dugouts and fortifications were dug. Military men and equipment caused extensive damage to the park.

After the war, the attitude to the estate began to change. Historians considered it from the position of places associated with the activities of V.I. Lenin, art critics turned to Kuzminki in the abstract of studying the work of architects.

In 1955, a ring road passed through the forest area of ​​the Kuzminki estate, dividing the territory of the forest park and sharply reducing the historical area of ​​the estate. In 1960, the village of Kuzminki was included in the Zhdanovsky district of Moscow, and the Kuzminki estate was assigned security number 393 as an architectural and park ensemble to be restored.

In 1964, the Elizarovs' dacha was restored with the placement of the Lenin Museum there. On the very territory of the estate, a park of culture and recreation was created, which resulted in the attraction of a large number of Muscovites, who caused significant damage to the local landscape. Taking advantage of the lack of boundaries of the buffer zone of the architectural and park ensemble, in 1966 they began to build up the territory of the park with residential buildings.

The turning point in the fate of the estate "Kuzminki" is 1974, in which the status of the estate as a monument of national importance was confirmed. However, in 1979 a decision was issued "On the organization of a park of culture and recreation on the territory of the Kuzminki forest park zone of the Volgograd region." This decision lowered the status of Kuzminki as a manor complex and reduced it to the status of a district.

In 1978, a masterpiece of architecture of the 19th century, the Musical Pavilion, burned down. The former hospital building suffered six fires, as a result of which unique ceiling paintings were damaged. The monument was handed over to the USSR State Sports Committee, which did not take any protective measures.

Finally, in 1980, the Kuzminki estate complex was included in the List of Historical and Cultural Monuments of the RSFSR, subject to priority restoration and museumification with the mandatory removal of VIEV from the estate. But the program of restoration work on Kuzminki for the 11th and 12th five-year plans remained unfulfilled.

Since the 1980s, educational work has been carried out among Muscovites. In 1983, a new topic “History of the Kuzminki Estate” appeared in the program of the lecture hall of the Kuzminki PKiO; A program was proposed to create a single museum-monument "Kuzminki" as a means of saving the complex.

However, political events changed the process of museumification of the estate and reduced the restoration work to zero. In the last decade of the 20th century, the decisions of the city authorities began to give hope for the return of the estate to its original form and to restore its status as one of the best Russian estates.

In 1990, the church, sacristy and clergy house were transferred to the Russian Orthodox Church, restoration work began. In the same year, the Moscow government decided to create a State Historical and Cultural Complex on the territory of the Kuzminki park.

By the 20th century, more than 20 architectural monuments had been preserved on the territory of Kuzminki. Among them, a smithy and a greenhouse have been preserved in a ruined state. In disrepair, the Orangery, palace wings, Animal and Stud Farms. Requiring urgent restoration and restoration work - the Musical and Egyptian pavilions. The park sculpture has been completely lost. Two-thirds of the metal items that adorned Kuzminsky Park disappeared. The English park has been neglected, the French park has been relatively landscaped.

The territory of the estate "Kuzminki" and the surviving buildings were occupied by various institutions: VIEV, the administration of the Kuzminki Forestry Farm, a private school, the Museum of K. G. Paustovsky, ESNRPM.

Currently, the grottoes, the building on Slobodka, the Sacristy Horse Yard, the Musical Pavilion, the Humpbacked Bridge, the Church have been restored, the Forge, the Bath House are under restoration.

… The history and culture of the Kuzminki estate still serves us today.

Kuzminki deserve careful treatment and serious study.

More detailed information can be obtained in the books of the author Nina Dmitrievna Kuzmina “Kuzminki. Vlakherna village. Mill”, “Orthodox Parish of the Church of the Blachernae Icon of the Mother of God in Kuzminki”, “Moscow Dear Corner”).

Almost all the historical buildings of the estate have miraculously survived to our time, however, they were rebuilt in the 20th century. As in the 19th century, the compositional center of the estate ensemble is the main manor house-palace. The building, peculiar for the architecture of Moscow and the Moscow region, has a combination of a cross and a circle in plan. Such an unusual form is a completely original solution, which is difficult to find analogies among Russian manor buildings. In classicism, a round colonnade often symbolizes an ancient temple, but here it became a sign of the dedication of the building to the ancient deity - Apollo, whose statue originally crowned its dome. This layout goes back to the designs of the Italian architect of the 16th century. A. Palladio, as well as the theorist of French classicism of the XVIII century J.-F. Nefforge. At the same time, a number of researchers suggest that the architectural design of the palace is approaching the earlier French-Swedish project “Salon of Apollo” (“Temple of Knowledge, or Montparnasse”), created by Nicodemus Tessin the Younger in 1700 as an architectural panegyric of Louis XIV - the Sun King.

N.A.Durasov peacefully built and merrily settled in his new “Moscow region” in the fashion of that time. In the halls of the palace, the theater and the shady park, the generous owner arranged sumptuous dinners, festivities, performances and balls in the summer, at which a wonderful orchestra played. In the cold season, he invited guests to a magnificent greenhouse. The well-known memoirist S.P. Zhikharev recalled one of these methods. At the beginning of March 1805, he specially came to Lublin with a friend to compare the Lublin greenhouse with the greenhouse of the neighboring Kuskovo estate, which belonged to the Sheremetevs. Durasov immediately invited his friends to dine with him. After a while, more guests arrived. “... There were twelve of us all,” writes Zhikharev, “but the table was set for thirty couverts ... The dinner was wonderful ... When the greenhouse was lit up, it turned into some kind of Armida's garden. Lucky! How much pleasure and goodness he can do to others!”

Another guest, an Englishwoman, Miss Katherine Wilmot, who was at the celebration arranged in Lublin in honor of Princess E.R. Dashkova on October 4, 1806, was delighted with the estate and the theater: “everything was like in a magic castle.” Wilmot calls the estate “a corner of paradise with a marble palace… From this delightful place you can see bushes of trees and clearings, groves and lakes, valleys and hills scattered here and there, and the brilliant domes of Moscow complete the picture… True, low Durasov can rather be mistaken for a dwarf , and not for a knight - the owner of such an amazing estate "...

The whole of Moscow spoke about the wealth and hospitality of N.A. Durasova. So, one of the guests of the Lublin estate, M.A. Dmitriev, testified that Durasov treated Moscow luxuriously, "lived in his Lublin, like a satrap, had sterlets always ready in the cages, huge pineapples in the greenhouses." Dmitriev emphasized that "Durasov before the era of the French, which changed everything, was a necessary face of society."

Dear friends, I continue my column "Moscow Studies" and invite you for another walk. Taking into account past experience and criticism of the previous post, I tried to correct myself and it is really interesting to talk about one of the greenest areas of the city of Moscow. We are on our way to the monastery of Nikolai Alekseevich Durasov - to the beautiful Lyublino!

I'll start with a description of the coat of arms of Lublino and a short digression into the history of the region. The first information about this area appeared at the beginning of the 17th century, when the village of Yurkino was located here. At one time, this property was granted by Mikhail Fedorovich to his clerk - Grigory Larionov. At that time, the manor and all its buildings were wooden. Then the property wandered from hand to hand (including into the hands of the Godunovs), and at the beginning of the 19th century it passed to the retired brigadier N.A. Durasov, whose family coat of arms partially passed to the coat of arms of modern Lyublino. Today, in the upper part, it stands for the coat of arms of Duras, in the middle, the locomotive wheel reminds of the railway passing nearby, and the red walls speak of the “urban” past of this place. At the bottom of the coat of arms - blue water - a symbol of the wonderful Lublin Ponds.

Actually, the “durasov period” of the ownership of Lublino glorified this area, since that time the largest number of monuments have survived (they will be discussed below). The further history of Lyublino was connected mainly with the Soviet period, since most of today's residential areas were used as filtration fields before mass construction. Lublino today is an industrial center in the southeast, green lungs of the city in the north and a concentration of memorable places of the Great Patriotic War in all corners of this curious area of ​​Moscow.

Historians argue about the name of the area, do not find the ends. It seems that Lublino got its name (at first the emphasis was on the second syllable) in the 18th century, when such “pastoral” names were quite popular. The story should begin, of course, from the point of departure - for us, this is the metro of the same name. Let's take a quick look at the map. You and I will visit 10 different objects. Thanks to them, we will remember the glorious times of pre-revolutionary Russia, and the Soviet past of the region, and, of course, the most recent events associated with this southern town of our metropolis.

Actually, let's start with the latter. Lublino appeared in the media this year because of a rather curious case - the sawing of the cross of the church of St. Tatiana of Rome (1) . This is a new building on the territory of the district (the temple is not indicated on the maps of two years ago). Who did it (cut down the cross) and why? - questions that many are still looking for answers to. One way or another, a month before my arrival in this area, the cross was restored to the delight of the locals. A quiet sleeping area does not need the glory of antichrists.

The temple itself is located near the subway. There is also a well-groomed park nearby, where there are playgrounds for children, numerous benches, a football field. Opposite is a supermarket, as well as an ordinary market where you can buy everything - from cucumbers to batteries.

In the distance you can see modern buildings. Lublino is a district for life. On the way further you can find many similar high-rise buildings.

I'm going east. Past the football "box", past the closed area for walking dogs. Green breaking grass catches the eye.

In the distance you can see a covered room, where we go. On the territory of Lublin there is a unique museum - Lomakov's collection of vintage cars and motorcycles (2) .

It would be a serious remiss not to go inside.

At the entrance we are greeted by funny exhibits.

Having paid only 200 rubles for the entrance, we can enjoy Soviet and foreign auto-old times in a warm room. In total, Lomakovka has more than 130 historical cars and motorcycles!

The collection has been collected since 1959 (the last exhibit was brought to the garage, in my opinion, last year). In addition to cars, you will also be surrounded by household items of the Soviet era, collected by the thrifty hands of the owner of this museum.

The rudders hanging over your head just ask for your hands!

At the entrance I was met, apparently, by one of the Lomakovs. The future owner of this garage willingly told me about "Seagulls", "Victory", "ZIS" ... In general, he gave me a real tour.

This is perhaps the smallest and one of the fastest exhibits.

Here, under one roof, real rarities are collected. This applies to both motorcycles and cars that are still on the move.

Of course, Comrade Stalin was a cult figure for the Russian automobile industry, as his portrait unobtrusively reminds us of.

Cars of the Stalin Plant generally occupy the most space in the garage, it seems. Although, maybe I thought so.

Here you can meet both the black "Seagull" and the green "Zaporozhets". It's like going back half a century!

And in the corner lurked a black Skoda - a Czech rarity in the Lomakovs' collection.

Of course, one cannot help but recall the Volga. These cars can still be found on the streets of the capital and other Russian cities. True, not GAZ-21R, but rather GAZ-24 ...

A separate wall of the museum is dedicated to Soviet posters.

A small space is given to military equipment. Here, for example, is a GAZ 1933 (“one and a half”), which was often used during the Great Patriotic War (modified GAZ-AA to GAZ-MM). Here next to him is almost a real soldier.

In general, there are enough exhibits in the Lomakov Museum, so I just advise you to look here. The museum is open daily.

Very curious, for example, "Opel" born in 28. That's what cars looked like back then.

And here is the mine-pointer. Carefully!

The same "Opel", only in front.

For some money, you can ride one of the wonders of Soviet engineering. But in any case, you will have to leave this unique museum in Lublin with an open smile!

We leave the museum building. Here we are waiting for mines and other exhibits that simply did not fit in a closed garage.

However, these exhibits, as for me, are the most beautiful!

We were in Lomakovka for about half an hour. Now we are on our way to the southeast, the direction is Maryinsky Park Street.

Large crowds of people walking with us disperse in the middle of the way, when we reach the trade and fair complex "Moscow" (3) .

This is the modern history of Lublino. For many years, this shopping center has been steadily associated with the area. No wonder: it became the first multifunctional trade and fair complex in Moscow. Last year, Moscow celebrated its fifteenth anniversary!

But we are moving further along Krasnodarskaya street. Across from us is an interesting building. This is a fire station with a characteristic architecture.

We walk along Krasnodarskaya street to the intersection with Maryinsky Park street. Along the way, we come across a multi-level dump, as well as a multi-level parking lot.

While we are going to our next attraction, I will say a few words about the names of the local streets. It so happened that every time Moscow expanded, a certain area was given a standard "package" of street names (for lack of imagination). So in Moscow appeared ... twenty streets of Builders, ... twenty streets of Lenin, ... twenty trade union streets. Such names interfered with the ambulance, firefighters, etc. serve the population well. There was constant confusion. And here saving toponymy came into play! For more convenient navigation, it was decided to call the streets in the districts of Moscow by the names of large cities, places, etc., one way or another, related to the side of the world where this area is located. So in the north of Moscow, the streets Polyarnaya, Severodvinskaya, Taimyrskaya appeared. In the east - Baikal, Khabarovsk. In the south, an island of Azov, Yalta, Odessa streets reminds us of the warm winds from the southern seas. Lublin was no exception. There are a whole bunch of similar names in the area. This is both Krasnodarskaya street and Stavropolskaya (two main arteries). And Mariupolskaya street, and Krasnodonskaya. In general, there are a lot of such southern addresses (by the way, list them in the comments, I want to sort through everything!).

While I was telling you about this entertaining toponymy, we reached a traffic light (power stations are visible in the distance), and now we turn left, pass Kozhedub Street, then turn into courtyards. Of course, my excursion into the recent past was not a simple lyrical digression. The local authorities decided to fix the long-standing relationship with the Stavropol Territory and the Krasnodar Territory with a separate monument. So it is called - a monument to the Kuban (4) . This exhibit stands in the courtyard of one of the local schools.

I honestly admit that your humble servant spent about 25 minutes to see the ill-fated monument in the vicinity of the microdistrict. I had to go to different playgrounds, walk through sparsely populated yards.

However, the locals were quite conducive to themselves, and the whole microdistrict radiated only one positive!

In the end, when I did the next circle, I stopped over a small ears of rye, made of some unknown thing. I took a closer look ... It turned out that this is the monument of the Kuban.

In place of the inhabitants of the granary of Russia, I would be offended. Firstly, the loaf of bread has gone somewhere (initially, the monument consisted of more than just ears of corn), and secondly, it doesn’t even say here that this is a monument to the Kuban ...

And this despite the fact that it was opened on October 11, 2008 in the most solemn atmosphere. One way or another, in a little upset feelings, I leave Maryinsky Park.

You can do this by bus "201" or "728", which go here quite often. We have to go to the last stop. But while we are waiting for transport, we will once again look back at the new buildings and the friendly 14th microdistrict.

Now let's look ahead. Directly on our course, we have an object of increased importance - the famous electrical substation "Chagino" No. 510 (5) . We all must remember the events of May 25, 2005, when half of Moscow stood up for a few hours due to a power outage. Either Chubais was to blame for this, or someone else ... nevertheless, helicopters on that ill-fated May day flew precisely over Lyublino.

Now the substation has been slightly reconstructed, it provides the south of Moscow with electricity, as it is part of the Moscow Energy Ring. Nevertheless, a block of power plants and similar large buildings reminds us that one of the largest energy industrial zones of the capital is located on the territory of the city, namely in Lyublino. We move on.

While we are on the bus, I will tell you about the filtration fields in Lublin. The end of the 19th century - the beginning of the construction of irrigation fields on the site of the Chaginsky swamp. Here, through special channels, wastewater, passing through the sand, was purified and merged into the Moscow River. Since then, street names have been preserved - Upper Fields and Lower Fields. They run along the southern border of the region. By the way, here in Lublin, for the first time in the world, the method of biological wastewater treatment was tested, which was recognized as an outstanding achievement at the exhibition in Brussels. However, what an interesting glory the Lublin fields have!

Upon arrival at the final stop "Hospital. Semashko" we can see our next object - the Church of the Apostle Andrew the First-Called in Lublin (6) .

The temple itself was built not so long ago - in 2001, although it looks like a building certainly not in the twenty-first century! Now we are going west.

It starts to rain... We pass by the Semashko hospital at the Russian Railways. Then we will go strictly along Stavropolskaya street to the house number "1". Along the way, we come across a well-groomed square, which reminds us of the tragic events of the forties, fateful…

In the center of the square there is a monument to the pilot A.F. Avdeev - posthumously Hero of the Soviet Union (7) .

He lived all his life in his native Lublin, in his youth he worked as a mechanic at a local factory, and when the time came to fight, he became a flight commander. In the sky, he shot down 7 aircraft, made 189 sorties, one of which was his last. In 1942, Avdeev rammed an enemy plane, after which he never returned to earth ...

Lublin sacredly honors the memory of those who fought in that war. To the east is, for example, Stepan Shutov Street - another participant in the Great Patriotic War; southwest - the square named after the tankman Sudakov - the hero of the Soviet Union. However, we continue our journey. We go along Stavropolskaya to the stop.

There are a lot of interesting things along the way (pay attention to the sign in the lower left corner!). This is how, for example, the entrance doors to ordinary houses on Stavropolskaya are painted.

Having reached the intersection with Lublinska Street, we wait about two minutes for the green light to cross to the other side. There are some excavations and construction works going on here, but in general this is the building of the Lyublino cultural center (8) .

This is a former club named after the III International. Here the working people met, educated and entertained. There are three auditoriums for 70, 420 and 1200 seats, there is a separate gym. Outside - an inconspicuous monument of Soviet constructivism. Leave it to the restorers.

Going deep into a small green area, which is located north of the club building, you can stumble upon a lone bust of Ilyich. The weeping head of Lenin in the rain is an unforgettable sight.

Now your obedient servant finds himself under a tropical downpour, but we can't just leave the tour without the main pearl of Lublino - the estate with ponds! Therefore, we keep our way along Lublinskaya street. On the left, we will have the Lyublino platform, while on the right, a view of the green zone is gradually beginning to open.

So here we are. From the western part we enter the park "Lyublino" (9) . Quietly and peacefully we are met by the Upper Lublin Pond.

Under the sounds of a calm rain, the water beckons with its steamy reflection.

On a certain hill behind (in the very corner of the district) the Lyublino administration was located. The flag of the Russian Federation flying in the wind reminds us what kind of building this is.

Let's walk along the edge of the reservoir, get some fresh air. The Lublin Ponds complete the system of the Kuzminsky Ponds; they were created at the beginning of the 19th century on the territory of the estate. In general, they fit perfectly into the local landscape, since earlier Lyublino was something like a peninsula on a hill. After all, if you look carefully at the map, you can understand that the area is almost from all sides, one way or another surrounded by water. Lublin Ponds are the northern border of the territorial unit to this day.

We turn into the depths of the park. Here, the landmark is a fenced building (I don’t know how it is used now. You know - write in the comments!).

Now we pass to the geographical center of the park. Here begins our journey to the highlight of Lublino - Durasov's estate.

The ensemble of the estate "Lyublino" - a monument of historical and cultural heritage (10) . The white-on-blue sign says that the park area can accommodate up to 5,000 people. This is approximately 3.3% of the population of the territorial unit.

While we overcome the steep terrain, I will tell you more about this place. Ever since Lyublino (aka Yurkino) was a small settlement outside the territory of Moscow, many townspeople liked to come here to relax. After the ownership of this place by the Godunovs and Prozorovskys (already under the foreman Durasov), the first dachas begin to appear here. The heyday of the estate falls on the time of N.A. Durasov, when a fortress theater worked here, there was a barnyard, there was a huge garden. Sources testify that even pineapple greenhouses could be found at this place, and cows brought specially from Austrian meadows grazed nearby. Until our time, the Durasov Palace, the theater building, several living quarters, a greenhouse, and a horse yard have been preserved in good condition.

The Durasovsky Palace is an immense building, built in terms of architecture rather curiously. The brigadier himself was very fond of St. Anne, so we can see that the belvedere is decorated with her statue - almost from all sides you can clearly see the tall monument. Moreover: if you look at the plan of the building from a bird's eye view, you can be surprised again - the palace was built in the form of the Order of St. Anna! It is also round, with some protrusions on the sides.

Unfortunately, I did not get inside, but I know that it is very beautiful there. And from the outside, the palace makes an amazing impression! The architects R.R.Kazakov and I.V.Egotov (he also restored the Kremlin buildings, created the plan of Gostiny Dvor) founded a beautiful ensemble.

The building itself is impressive and occupies a central place in the estate. Bas-reliefs about Dionysus and Aphrodite, massive columns with patterned capitals - the idea of ​​​​the owner of the palace, who was not just a lover of magnificent Palladianism, but also a real intellectual, connoisseur of high art!

This is the view from under the roof of the palace.

In general, the main building resembles the Villa Rotunda, and some sources indicate that the rich man Durasov wanted to build the same massive work of art in the suburbs of Moscow. The ensemble includes some more buildings, to which we will now go. If you repeat this route, be sure to look inside the palace. This is a real celebration of great classicism!

State Councilor Durasov loved art in all its manifestations, and as a rich landowner of the 19th century, he could not help but have his own serf theater. The Durasov Theater was widely known throughout Russia. Not only Moscow came here to watch the performances (which is already a lot!). From here, many actors moved to the Imperial stage. The troupe itself was led by the then famous actor P.A.Plavilshchikov. The era of the Durasov theater is the heyday of serf theaters in Russia.

The building of the theater school, the theater itself, and living quarters for actors have survived to this day. Unfortunately, after the death of Durasov, there was no one to engage in art in the estate, so soon everyone forgot about the theater.

This is what the surrounding space looked like for those who studied in the theater.

In Soviet times, these buildings were not used for their intended purpose. Today there is a question about how to revive the theater school here. At least in 2007, the Moscow Government has repeatedly stated this. If this initiative is continued, then I, of course, am in favor!

All buildings of the ensemble are located two meters from each other, so it will not be difficult to get around them in five minutes.

And here is the theatre. As in previous cases, the architects of the buildings were Kazakov and Egotov.

This unremarkable building is a boarding house for noble children. By the way, some parts of "Crime and Punishment", as well as "The Gambler" were written by F.M. Dostoevsky in this boarding house, on the second floor of the building! Interesting.

Let's go through the greenhouse. We are heading along Summer Street in order to leave Durasov's possessions alone and return home. Our walk in rainy Lublin is coming to an end.

The tour turned out to be quite long, but informative.

If someone wants to learn much more about Lublin, then I advise you to follow this link: http://prolublino.ru/. Here you can find a lot of interesting things about the history of the area, the names of streets, the Durasov estate. It is very difficult to fit everything in one post, so I recommend it!

Having reached the end of Letnaya Street, we come to the bridge over the Lublin Ponds.

We are heading to the Volzhskaya metro station, which is located on the territory of another district.

With this, I think it’s time to say goodbye to the wonderful world of Lublino, where the interweaving of the history of the 19th century with the Soviet past and modern history creates truly amazing knots that are so pleasant to unravel while walking along the quiet and peaceful streets of the area.

As always, write your comments, wishes and thanks in the comments! I'm sorry for the sim. It was the area "Lyublino". I completed the entire route in 3 hours and 9 minutes.

Nikolai Neskolov was with you. See you at the crossroads of the capital! ;-)

Old Lublin
Gennady Milovanov
1.
Lublino, as an area in the south-east of Moscow, was first mentioned in documents of the 16th century, and by the middle of the 19th century, Lublino was known as a suburban estate. With the construction of the railway in the 1870s, station workshops and a railway workers' settlement arose here. In 1925, Lublino became a new city in the Moscow province, although not much different from other neighboring towns and villages: Tekstilshchiki, Pechatniki, Pererva, Batyunino, Kuryanovo and Maryino. All of them were located along the railway of the Kursk direction and were ordinary villages near Moscow, with huts with three windows and carved architraves on them, orchards and kitchen gardens, with the first Soviet tractors in the surrounding fields and cattle walking through the meadows.
Several low stone houses, quarters of gray barracks, country houses and village huts - that's all of Lublino on the eve of a large construction site of the thirties of the last century. In 1930 - 1940, it included some surrounding settlements: Kukhmistersky settlement (former Kitaevsky - Kitaevka), Pererva, Irrigation Fields and the village of Pechatnikovo.
After the war, in the late 1940s - early 1950s, Tekstilshchiki and Kuryanovo began to be built up with stone buildings with their own special architecture, inherent in small provincial towns. On the central square stood a monument to Lenin with a traditionally outstretched hand, opposite it was the House of Culture with a colonnade and a triangular pediment on the facade, and straight streets and boulevards with flower beds scattered in different directions from the center, where two-story houses with high hipped roofs.

In the 1970s, on the site of the old villages of Pechatniki and Batyunino, they began to build new multi-storey residential buildings. And only later than all, by the end of the seventies, mass housing construction came to Pererva and Maryino, impressing with its pace and scale and parting with the past, wooden, lacy, without regret.
Maryino, most likely, was named after Princess Maria Yaroslavna, mother of Grand Duke Ivan III, who organized this ancient settlement in the lower reaches of the Moscow River. The ancient village of Pererva stood on the high bank of the old river of the same Moskva River, which unexpectedly changed, interrupted, its former course and flowed along a new channel, already closer to the neighboring village of Kolomenskoye near Moscow. In Pererva there is the Nikolo-Perervinsky Monastery, standing in the middle of the village, on one side going out to Central Shosseynaya Street, and on the other going down to the bend of the Moskva River.
According to legend, this monastery was founded in the XIV century by the widow of Prince Dmitry Donskoy Evdokia. Visible from afar, towering over the village houses was the monastery complex with the slender white-stone Nikolsky Cathedral of the 17th century and the later, huge and pompous red-brick Cathedral of the Iberian Mother of God, buildings and chambers, entrance gates, walls and towers of the 17th-19th centuries.
On the opposite side of the railway from Pererva, behind the station of the same name, between the village of Maryino and Yuzhny passage (now Ilovaiskaya street), numerous long squat barracks were framed by sheds and green front gardens. They were inhabited mainly by regional limit workers, previously brought in as cheap labor for shock Moscow construction projects.
In the pre- and post-war years of a general shortage of housing, in addition to barracks, local and visiting people also huddled in dark, suffocating basements of houses, and in dug damp dugouts, and in heating cars that stood at dead ends on storage tracks between Pererva and Depot stations. And even further down the road along the tracks, next to the quarry, there was a secret cemetery of captured Germans who worked in Moscow and the region after the war.
At one time, the name of Lyublino Dachnoye near Moscow railway station was not accidental. Densely overgrown with pine forest interspersed with larches, lindens and oaks, the hilly area between Lyublinsky pond going north towards Kuzminki and peasant houses along part of Astapovsky highway and Moscow (now Lublinskaya) street has long attracted the attention of rich and eminent people . From the 1780s, the famous Godunovs owned the estate. Later, the estate belonged to the Prozorovsky princes and was so loved by the owners that it got its present name - Lyublino.
In 1800, the estate was acquired by a wealthy Moscow landowner, real state councilor, retired army brigadier Nikolai Alekseevich Durasov (1760 - 1818). In 1801, by his order, architects R. R. Kazakov and V. I. Egotov designed and built a whole complex of a country estate on the hilly bank of the Golyadi River, turned into a vast pond. It included the main palace, exactly repeating the shape and proportions of the order-cross of St. Anne, received by N. A. Durasov from Paul I, the building of the fortress theater and the theater school, a horse yard, a greenhouse and an English-style park.
In pre-revolutionary guidebooks they wrote: "Despite the curiosity of the idea, the Lublin Palace is one of the most interesting monuments near Moscow." In the halls of his luxurious palace, the hospitable owner of the estate arranged dinner parties, balls, festivities and receptions, accompanied by the playing of the orchestra. The holidays were famous throughout Moscow and attracted the nobility of the capital. In May 1818, shortly before the death of the army brigadier, the Empress Dowager visited his theater and greenhouse and was delighted with the performance she saw.
After the sudden death of N. A. Durasov, the Lyublino estate was owned by his sisters, and in the second half of the 19th century, the main palace and other estate buildings, along with the vast adjacent territories, passed to the merchants Rakhmanin and Galafteev. And they, without hesitation, adapted them for summer cottages and began to rent them out to everyone. Next to the palace stood a beautiful wooden church of Peter and Paul, dismantled and taken away by atheist Bolsheviks in 1928 to the village of Yezhevo, Yegoryevsky district, near Moscow.
In the 19th century, at different times, writers N. M. Karamzin and F. M. Dostoevsky, the chairman of the lovers of Russian literature, academician F. I. Buslaev, painters V. I. Surikov and V. A. Serov came to their dachas in Lublino. In the village of Pechatniki lived the poet F. S. Shkulev, the author of the popular song “We are blacksmiths, and our spirit is young.” Even the leader of the world proletariat, V. I. Ulyanov-Lenin, spent the whole summer of 1894 staying with his family at a dacha in Lublin.
On June 29, 1904, a hurricane coming from the south to Moscow touched Lyublino and buzzed it to glory. The black whirlwind that hit the dacha village destroyed the village houses, threw the sculpture of the god Apollo from the dome of the palace, which was later replaced by a new sculpture of a Herculan woman in antique clothes, knocked down centennial trees in the manor park, “drank” the pond with collectible golden carps, “spitting out” valuable fish already in the Lefortovo area in Yauza.
Healthy pine air, the mirror surface of the Lublin Pond, the proximity of Moscow and the convenience of railway communication, and, most importantly, the prices are several times cheaper compared to the same cottages along the Yaroslavl road - all this contributed to the rapid and popular settlement of Lublin summer residents. From the station itself, a wide linden alley led to Moskovskaya Street, along which peasant huts lined up. To the north of them, under a thick canopy of centuries-old trees, there were one- and two-story country houses: some had more, some were richer, some were more modest, not differing from neighboring village houses.
After the October Revolution of 1917, many owners of dachas, both summer and those in which they lived all year round, left not only their homes, but also Russia itself, not at all of their own free will, but, in the opinion of the Bolsheviks, clearly not fitting into the proletarian visions of a bright future. Their country houses were confiscated by the Soviets for the establishment of local authorities and their employees. Some of the former homeowners stayed to live out their lives in their buildings: either from the impossibility of leaving for a number of reasons, or blindly believing in the new government and the world revolution, or simply in the hope of the eternal Russian "maybe it will carry over and not be touched."
Year after year passed, and from a more than modest life under the dictatorship of the proletariat, little was left of the former appearance of the nobility of the old owners of Lublin dachas, deliberately compacted by the authorities for reasons of socialist expediency. And so they lived in the new Soviet era, these ladies from the nineteenth century that had gone down in history, like quiet gray mice in their Chekhov's "houses with a mezzanine."
Together with the construction of the railway from the Lyublino station in the direction of the dacha village, a wide shady linden alley was laid, after the revolution it was called Oktyabrskaya (now Quiet) street, and in common parlance - an alley. At the station itself and on a part of the alley before its intersection with Moskovskaya Street, there were mainly small household establishments: various shops, benches, kiosks, workshops. There was one rather remarkable barbershop among them, in which they cut and shaved in the old grandfather way of the master of their craft.
When the client sitting in the chair was already trimmed, the master (mostly a woman) turned to the back of the hall and commanded in a loud voice:
- Device!
The door opened, and a nimble “grandmother of God’s dandelion” appeared from there with a tray in her hands, where there were shiny metal appliances ready for shaving with hot water and soapy foam, a shaving brush, a towel and a dangerous razor, which was periodically sharpened on a leather hanging on the side of the mirror. belt. The shaving process was quite long and laborious, but the patient client was satisfied, looking at his clean-shaven cheeks after a hot compress, shining like the polished sides of a samovar.

2.
After crossing with Moskovskaya Street, on both sides of the linden alley, country houses began, in one of which, at number eighteen, my close relatives once lived. The house was small and beautiful, even elegant, obviously different from other neighboring houses, on a low foundation, two-story, with a mezzanine overlooking the front garden under the windows of the first floor and a dense, shady alley behind it. A terrace with steps at the entrance was attached to the right end of the house, from which a steep staircase led to the second floor.
Behind the entrance gate in the high palisade of the fence, an inner courtyard, overgrown with grass, opened up with an old huge sprawling poplar tree, beaten by lightning, but still alive, casting its shadow almost over the entire courtyard and house. From the side of the back yard there was another terrace with the same worn wooden steps at the entrance, along which they entered the house.
On the ground floor of the house, behind a tiny cramped hallway, there was a kitchenette with a small stove built of bricks. From the kitchen and hallway, doors led into a light room with windows facing the street and a dark room. On the left side of the terrace in the back yard was another one-story extension to the house with a square room and a brick stove. The yard was surrounded by a summer latrine and sheds upholstered in rusty tin with firewood, various junk and other junk.
On Sadovaya (now Summer) Street, starting from the Durasov Palace and running parallel to the shore of the Lublin Pond to Lenin Avenue (now Krasnodonskaya Street), there was a city school No. 4, later No. 1144. It was a two-story brick building built in the style of a provincial gymnasium with an entrance main staircase in the middle and long corridors with a series of classrooms on the floors. From the windows of the school one could see the opposite bank of the pond with old buildings from the beginning of the 20th century. It was possible to walk to school along the alley, that is, Oktyabrskaya and Cooperative (now Yeyskaya) streets, but the children went straight through the palace park and through a hole in bent iron bars in a low fence - it was so closer.
Lyublino near Moscow, which became a second small homeland for my paternal grandmother Vasilisa Vasilyevna and her children, at first was not much different from their distant Aleksandrovka in the Tambov region, from where they came in the late twenties, fleeing dispossession. There was one central Moscow street in Lublin with several stone buildings, looking down on the village huts and dachas, buried in gardens, snow-white blooming in spring and flaming foliage in autumn. At the opposite end of the street began irrigation fields, where, on the very edge of the city, since 1904, the fields of the Lublin city sewage aeration station began to work, and in front of them stretched gray dull quarters of wooden barracks. From both of them, only memories remained for a long time.
Pre-war Lublino is shady secluded alleys among country houses, streets and alleys, the silence of which was broken by rare passing cars, the clatter of hooves of horses harnessed to carts and the noise of railway trains passing nearby. On both sides of Moskovskaya Street, along its entire length from the Lublin pond to the intersection with Upper and Lower Fields streets, huge old lindens once grew, closing their crowns over the roadway. It was said that this was part of a road specially built and lined with lindens for the passage of Catherine II to her country palace in Tsaritsyn, not so far from here.
Mighty trees have been rising for two hundred years, giving people fresh air and shady coolness in summer, having withstood hurricanes and bombings, and did not resist the reconstruction of Lublin at the end of the twentieth century. First, they sawed and uprooted the ridges, laid a parallel street with traffic in the opposite direction, and then made one continuous six-lane highway from both two-lane streets - a sort of local Broadway. Well, well, the convenience of movement is more expensive than native nature.
As if remembering its status as a city near Moscow, Lublino began to be actively built under Soviet rule. Almost the entire Moscow street in the early thirties was declared a shock construction site. From Oktyabrskaya street and to the plant. L. M. Kaganovich (now the Lublin Foundry and Mechanical Plant) five- and six-story brick houses were erected - mainly for foundry workers - plastered and painted in a cheerful pink color. It was not for nothing that Comrade Stalin said: life has become better, life has become more fun.
Before the revolution of 1917, this plant bore the name of its former owner, the Frenchman Mozhirez. The new government graciously relieved him of this post, driving him back to his historical homeland, and nationalized the enterprise, giving it the name of a new communist idol. But the name of the French manufacturer, which became a household name for local residents, was so entrenched in their memory that for a long time they called them the surroundings of the plant:
– Where are we going?
- To Mozhirez.
- Where have you been?
- On Mogirez.
From the railway station Lyublino Dachnoe, Vokzalnaya (now Kubanskaya) street originated. At its crossroads with Moscow, a large beautiful residential building was erected with through arches into the courtyard, balconies, columns and stucco cornices. The people called it "Tatar" due to the fact that it was inhabited by wealthy Tatars who bought apartments for themselves in it. It was towards the end of the twentieth century that the people from the south reached Moscow, the inhabitants of the “fraternal Caucasus” with their commercial and criminal streak.
And before and after the war, there were many Tatars in Lyublino who worked as janitors. They were willingly taken to this work, which was considered not prestigious, as they were diligent and, most importantly, non-drinkers, who sacredly honored the commandments of the Koran, which forbade Muslims to drink. In addition to respect from the outside, this, apparently, gave them considerable savings in funds compared to the fairly succumbing domestic janitors. So they could afford to buy an apartment in a large house on the main street, unlike other indigenous people who worked hard for pennies at factories and construction sites and huddled all their lives in crowded communal apartments or in their wrecked houses.
After the war, new tall beautiful houses were built along Moskovskaya Street, and at its intersection with Kalinina Street, back in 1943, a monumental building with columns and a stucco pediment was erected, which housed the Industrial and Pedagogical College, which was later transformed into a College. And at the end of Moskovskaya Street, on the site of the former pre-war railway school, a technical school of the same name appeared, which also became a College.
When in 1960 Lyublino from a city near Moscow became the Lyublinsky district of the capital, the police department was transferred from the park, linden alley near the Durasov Palace to Vokzalnaya Street, which occupied the entire first floor of a residential building. And in the house opposite - the district military registration and enlistment office, until then located on Moskovskaya Street, near the railway itself, near the pond, from where the inhabitants of Lublin used to go to the front during the war years.
Then they demolished a whole block of one-story houses in the thickets of gardens and erected a typical Altai cinema next to the pre-war still "Police" store. Next came the sobering-up station, the reception of glassware - in short, the street was for all occasions. How can you not compete with Moscow, that is, Lublinskaya street for the title of local Broadway. But I didn’t really want to once again appear in the aforementioned establishments, except perhaps in the cinema and in the store.
As for trade establishments, then, as the guide to the surroundings of the capital of the twenties testifies: “In Lublin, it should be noted the presence of a state retail stall, a Concordia wine and gastronomic store and a private bakery.” In the thirties, in connection with the mass construction of residential buildings, the first floors in them, as a rule, were assigned to shops. Three such outlets were constantly in sight and heard by the residents of the city.
This is the already familiar "Police" - in the neighborhood of the police department at the corner of Vokzalnaya and Kooperativnaya streets; at the crossroads of Moskovskaya and Kalinina streets (now Krasnodarskaya) - the so-called "Gray" department store in a house built of gray bricks; and, finally, the "White" store - at the intersection of Oktyabrskaya and Moskovskaya streets: a two-story (not preserved) building, painted white on the outside, with a food store on the first and a department store on the second floor, where the main staircase led in the middle of the store with stone steps worn out from time to time .
All three names - “White”, “Gray” and “Policeman”, along with “Mozhirez” became common nouns, and were used in common parlance so that the locals, unlike outsiders, understood each other perfectly, knowing what they were talking about in their conversation:
- And what did I buy the other day in the "Bely"!
- In the "Grey" they also threw something out - there was a long queue.
- Yesterday I stood in the "Militia" for half a day - this is the queue!
- And on the "Mozhirez" people were breaking for something - there was noise.
It was in the “White” store that my aunt Praskovya Mikhailovna Milovanova worked as a seller of the bread department on the first floor from the beginning of the thirties until her retirement in 1963. I remember, as a child, at the end of the fifties of the last century, my parents and I went to visit Aunt Panya in Lyublino. Before going to their house on the alley, they turned on the way to Bely and went to the bread department, from which such a fragrant spirit of freshly baked bread came from that only saliva flowed.
Approaching the display case, with loaves and loaves laid out on it, we greeted the always friendly aunt Panya standing behind the counter. I received some fresh, still warm, delicious bun from her hands as a gift and ate it on both cheeks. And Praskovya Mikhailovna, having stood behind a shop counter from morning to evening for more than thirty years, eventually earned herself a small pension and sore legs, which is why she lived in this world for only sixty-two years.
The work of her sister, Olga Mikhailovna, three years younger than her, was no easier. My aunt Olya worked at the Lyublino railway station, in a repair team, turning heavy sleepers with her friends and hammering steel crutches into them, once again convincing the weaker sex. She was also a janitor: in winter frosts she shoveled snow with a shovel and chopped ice with a crowbar, in summer heat and dust she swept sidewalks with a broom, and in autumn, in rain and wind, she removed abundant fallen leaves and no less abundant human garbage along the alley and near the memorable White store.

3.
But pre-war Lyublino lived not only by daily bread - literally and figuratively. Immediately after the October Revolution, a 2nd stage school was set up in the main house of the Durasov estate. Then she was replaced by the railwaymen's club. III International. The neighboring Peter and Paul Church was given over to the Komsomol club.
In the 1930s, in the space between Vokzalnaya, Kurskaya and Sovetskaya (now Stavropolskaya) streets, a new, rather intricate in design, building of the House of Culture named after I. III International. In it, films were shown for Lublin workers, dances and various cultural events were held. I don’t know how before, but after the war, the people in their own way perceived this given from above in a fit of revolutionary enthusiasm, the name of the House of Culture:
- Let's go to the cinema!
- Where?
- Yes, in the "Third".
Just in the "Third" and no "International", which still had to be pronounced. And on the site of the old stadium located next to the Third, a young park was laid out with alleys and paths, flower beds and benches around them, shady trees and trimmed bushes. The stadium itself was moved to a new, more spacious location along Oktyabrskaya and Krasnoarmeyskaya (now Quiet) streets, next to the old Lublin market.
That market was small, with a tall wooden fence, gates and stalls. They traded all sorts of things on it: vegetables and fruits grown in their gardens, meat and milk, clothes and shoes, furniture and various consumer goods. There was a lot of junk, trophy and stolen. All this was sold, changed, pushed - there was enough of everything. And the sellers were all their own - "not like the current tribe" from the south. Only in the mid-sixties this shop was closed on the occasion of the opening of a new large covered collective farm market in Tekstilshchiki and the expansion of the neighboring Lokomotiv stadium.
On the site of the demolished old market, another football field appeared, and on the main one, in addition to regional and city matches, matches of substitutes of the union championship were held. One could see firsthand the future stars of national football. In winter, the field of the stadium was flooded, and in the evenings, ice skating was organized under the lights and music.
In spring and autumn, crowds of people gathered at the main entrance to the stadium, among them shorn guys in old clothes and with backpacks over their shoulders. All this was resounded by the overflowing of harmonicas, the strumming of guitars and discordant, rollicking singing. So every year Lublin youth was escorted to the army at the recruiting station, located just at the Lokomotiv stadium.
Returning to the Houses of Culture, I will say that there was another one in Lublin - on Mozhirez, among the old two-story houses, not far from the Kaganovich factory. Like Kuryanovsky, it was with columns and a stucco pediment on the facade, where there were also films in the auditorium, and in the foyer there were dances and a buffet. From this recreation center there was a street running parallel to Moscow Street, which in the country's jubilee year was given the loud name "Forty Years of October Avenue". And it stretched among the slum quarters and dull barracks for Lublin workers.
At the opposite end of the avenue, not far from the "police" store, there was a popular bathhouse with a steam room and an indispensable beer. Behind the "police" street began Kooperativnaya street, where after the war there were houses of dormitories for visiting limiters of the local SMU. Further, the street rested on the estate of N. A. Durasov.
After the revolution of 1917, the new government nationalized the estate and settled down in it in a businesslike manner. In the manor house, in addition to the school and then the club, there was a police station, other departmental institutions, including the city council, the TPO cooperative, etc., also occupied the former buildings of the Durasov estate and some confiscated nearby dachas. In the manor church, local activists destroyed the interiors in the altar part and set up a “godless corner” there, until, finally, it was completely closed and dismantled.
The park was used as a city garden: a loudspeaker was installed in it, and music was played on holidays. After the withdrawal of the club in 1930, the main house was badly dilapidated and at one time was not used in any way. Only after the war the palace was partially renovated for the Institute of Oceanology of the USSR Academy of Sciences. In the 1950s, it was already thoroughly restored and the painting of the interiors was restored, and at the beginning of the new century, a museum and a concert hall were opened in it.
But the manor park was less fortunate: it is neglected and partially cut down. The central part of it is occupied by a park of culture and recreation with various kinds of entertainment in the form of attractions, an open stage with a cinema installation, a dance floor, a chess and checkers club, a reading room, etc. Gorky Street led from the former Vokzalnaya Street to the main entrance to the park, which has now remained in the form of a small linden alley.
And right behind the entrance, one of the park alleys led to the left to a small one-story house. Somewhere until the mid-sixties it was famous in its way local, never empty, billiards. There were two halls in the house, in each of which there were tables covered with green cloth, where many people came to play a game - from beginners to recognized masters.
In my childhood memory there are soft summer twilights in the park, bright light from the windows of a house with a small porch, loud lively voices of the players and the sound of billiard balls rapidly sliding across the greenery of the tables. It was both interesting and scary for a young boy to look there. And now there is no longer this house with a billiards, and the park itself has become somehow empty and see-through, only a youth disco hits the ears with decibels of roaring speakers. Once upon a time, in its place, on a veranda overgrown with thick ivy, a brass band played during the day, and in the evenings for the youth of my generation of the 1970s, the “Magicians” ensemble.
None of the buildings specially built in Lublin as a dacha has survived, just as the old street names have not survived. Especially after 1960, when Lyublino became part of Moscow, the local streets Sadovaya and Borodinovka, Moskovskaya and Vokzalnaya, Lenin and Kirov, Gorky and Kalinin, Oktyabrskaya and Krasnoarmeiskaya, Sovietskaya and Kooperativnaya have sunk into history. They were replaced mainly by the names of cities in the south of Russia - our officials did not have enough imagination for more.
But once, in those far from us 1930s, my relatives, young and happy Praskovya Milovanova and her husband, Sergei Moiseev, who later went missing in August 1942 in the battles near Stalingrad, walked along these streets. Here, in the green streets of Lublin, my aunt Olya and her friends also walked on free summer evenings, in order to turn the heavy sleepers on the railway with them again in the morning. Grandmother Vasilisa Vasilievna, who miraculously survived from dispossession, brought her grandchildren, my older cousins ​​and sisters, to the manor park.
Perhaps my uncle Yegor, before leaving to serve in the Pacific Fleet in 1934, went to watch the films "Start in Life" and "Chapaev" in the park, and in February 1942 he died on the northwestern front near the city of Demyansk. My father and classmates of the school of 1940 walked on a short June night in the alleys of the park and met the dawn on the shore of the Lublin pond. And two and a half years later, in January 1943, he went to the front with the same seventeen-year-old boys, was seriously wounded and, thank God, returned from the war.
All this involuntarily pops up in your memory when you walk, slowly, along the unusually quiet in our time and miraculously preserved among modern skyscrapers, shady linden alley from the Lyublino station to the Durasov palace estate - from a bright, unintelligent childhood to a sad, wise old age.

Moscow is one of the oldest cities in Russia. Each of its nooks and crannies, one way or another, is associated with certain historical events - and these are not necessarily military operations or coup d'état. Historical events, from which the history of entire regions begins, can even be construction - the DoorExpo company guarantees that any city or region begins with a single stone. One of these areas was Lublino. The estate, built in the seventeenth century, gave it its name. The entrance doors of Lublino let in numerous legends about the appearance of this estate, which is riddled with fairy tales and legends.

Initially, Lyublino - more precisely, the village, located on the site of the modern Lyublino district along the Goledi River - was called Yurkino. Obviously, the village was named after one of its owners. Later, from the end of the sixteenth century, the village passed to the stolnik Grigory Godunov.

He was a nobleman and the last of his kind. The sonorous surname did its job: the village began to be called Godunov. And it was the Godunov family that founded the estate, from which Lublino began.

Godunov's children, except for Agrafena, died young and were buried not far from the estate - in the Nikolo-Perervinsky monastery, built on the initiative of the nobles. Grigory Petrovich himself died at the beginning of the eighteenth century, after which Agrafena married the adjutant of Prince Golitsyn, after which the village of Godunovo was transferred to their son, Peter Prozorovsky. Connoisseurs of history from the DoorExpo company do not have accurate information, but according to available data, it was Prozorovsky who renamed Godunovo into Lyublino. The stress initially fell on the second syllable.

It was the era of the Prozorovskys that provided documentarians with the first architectural evidence of the plan of this territory. In 1766, a master plan was drawn up for surveying the Moscow district. According to these documents, there was a small estate in Lyublino (apparently, the same estate of the Godunovs). In addition to her, there were several wooden houses in the village, the painted doors of which were never locked. There were two roads leading to the estate. It is noteworthy that a few years later, notes were made to the plan, in which the estate was no longer there. Most historians believe that the estate was burned down. The causes of the fire are still unknown. After some time, the Godunov estate was rebuilt.

The fact is that in 1800 Lyublino with all its possessions passed to the retired brigadier Nikolai Durasov. Some call this man a count, but this is historically incorrect. Durasov, although he was a very wealthy man, still did not have the title of count. Nevertheless, the foreman's money was enough to build a new one on the site of the former estate. It has survived to this day, and by the name of the brigadier it is called Durasovskaya. Prior to the socialist revolution, noblemen lived in the estate, parties and balls were held. The massive doors of Lublino at that time were open mainly to the nobility and wealthy people.

At the end of the nineteenth century, a railway was laid near Lyublino. Thus, its own station appeared - Lyublino-Dachnoye. The second part of the name is explained by the fact that at about the same time serfdom was abolished and dachas began to be built on the estate. Following the railway, railway workshops and their own depot appeared. The workers also needed somewhere to settle down, and by the beginning of the twentieth century there were about two hundred dachas in Lublino. In 1926, Lublino became a city - more precisely, a part of Moscow.

After the civil war and revolution, the remnants of believers tried to save the church on the territory of Lublin from destruction and transported it to Ryzhovo. The plan succeeded, and the church was indeed saved. Even the building doors of Lublino survived for a long time. Well, the village itself, meanwhile, turned into a factory industrial railway area. Soon regular buses were allowed to enter exactly here, a house of culture named after the Third International was located in the palace of the estate, and a city-wide recreation park and a dance floor were laid out on the site of the noble alleys and terraces. In 1968, it began to be called the park of culture of the Leninist Komsomol. At the end of the sixties, Lyublino became part of the Zhdanovsky district, then the dacha buildings were liquidated, and high-rise buildings began. So a new Moscow came to Lublino. Time kindly opened the veneered doors of Lublino and closed the previous milestone in history.

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