Kozlova notch museum and station complex. Railway station kozlova notch, tula region

“I am waiting with great excitement for your letter, dear friend, and I go after him at 5 pm to Kozlovka,” wrote S.A. Fat husband.

Kozlovka, or Kozlova Zaseka, is the railway station closest to Yasnaya Polyana, and now it is a museum station.
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Where did such a name come from? By the name of the voivode Danila Kozlov, who with his garrison fought off enemy raids here.

Later, during the construction of the Moscow-Kursk railway, a railway station appeared on the site of the notch. Both long-distance trains going south and suburban, "summer" electric trains stopped here.

Repin, Shishkin, Strakhov, and other talented and famous guests of Yasnaya Polyana have been here. Few railway stations could boast so many famous people who visited it. Leo Tolstoy often came here with his son. Here he made phone calls, received his mail. The Tolstoy family made all their trips through this small railway station.

From here they went to Moscow or to the south. It was from here that he set out in 1910 and fell ill on the road.
At the Astapovo station, the writer died, and the funeral train brought his body back to the Kozlova Zaseki station.
In 1928, on the centennial anniversary, the station was given the name "Yasnaya Polyana" in honor of the famous writer's estate.
In 1974, Kozlova Zasek was recognized as a cultural monument and included in a number of cultural objects to be protected.
In 2001, at the initiative of the Minister of Railways, Kozlova Zasek regained its historical name. In the same year, a large-scale reconstruction and restoration of the building and the surroundings of the station began. The exhibition "Railway of Leo Tolstoy" opens, which can be visited by anyone.

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On the second day of the trip we went to Yasnaya Polyana. When only a few kilometers were left to the estate (according to the navigator), we ran into a "brick" - the road was completely blocked due to global repairs. I had to go around through Tula. The disadvantage of the navigator is that for quite a long time he suspects the driver of wrong actions and stubbornly offers to turn around in every place acceptable for this. But somehow our friend recovered, and we moved on. Here it turns out that we incorrectly put a point on the map. And leading us to the giant plant, the navigator announced that we were already in Yasnaya Polyana. A small explosion of emotions, loss of orientation in space and the way out I proposed - we are going to the Kozlov Zasek point, since we saw the railway nearby, which means that the station is somewhere nearby. Initially, we planned to go there after the estate, but it turned out the opposite.
Oh, and I still regret that I did not remove the plant. Well, just a monster! I've only seen such films about industrialization.
Meanwhile, our train car arrives at the Kozlova Zasek station.

The nearest railway station to the Yasnaya Polyana estate is located on the territory of the Kozlova notch, which was part of the complex of defensive structures on the southern border of the Russian state in the 16th-17th centuries. The name of the notch has several versions of origin, the main of which points to the voivode Danila Kozlov who served here.
In the 1860s, the construction of the Moscow-Kursk railway began, on the Tula section of which the Kozlova Zasek station was opened in 1864 (originally called a substation). It housed a small station building, which housed the head of the station and his assistant, the ticket office, the post office, and the passenger hall. Heating at the station was stove. In 1902, a luggage compartment, a wooden platform, an island platform, a toilet, a cellar and a railway house were built on Kozlovaya Zaseka.

Tolstoy called the station simply Kozlovka. “I am writing from the Kozlovka station. Noise. The people are gone." Lev Nikolaevich, who loved travel and spent a lot of time on the road, did not immediately accept the invasion of civilization. But still he could not help but appreciate the speed and convenience of the railway, and soon he booked a whole carriage for trips along the "cast iron" with his entire large family. The writer, for their part, was treated very well by the railway workers, in particular, they gave him a whole compartment when he was sick.
Some long-distance southbound trains stopped at the station, and in the summer, suburban trains also stopped. Repin, Korolenko, Shishkin, Strakhov and other guests of Yasnaya Polyana came here to proceed to the writer's estate. Often the Tolstoys met their guests at the station, while at Kozlovka they received mail. “I am waiting with great excitement for your letter, dear friend, and I go after him at 5 pm to Kozlovka,” wrote S.A. Fat husband.

The writer indicated the following as his address: "Tula province, Tula district, Kozlova Zasek station." This is evidenced by his following diary entry: "... I changed my mind about the address of your letters and ask you to write ahead to Kozlovka."
In 1928, in the year of the centenary of the writer's birth, the station was renamed Yasnaya Polyana, in 2001 its historical name was returned to it, restoration work was carried out and the exhibition "Leo Tolstoy's Railway" was opened.

We wandered through a small exhibition on our own, but you can buy tickets with a guided tour.

He was born into a noble family of Maria Nikolaevna, nee Princess Volkonskaya, and Count Nikolai Ilyich Tolstoy in the Yasnaya Polyana estate in the Krapivensky district of the Tula province as the fourth child. The happy marriage of his parents became the prototype of the characters in the novel "War and Peace" - Princess Marya and Nikolai Rostov. Parents died early. Tatyana Alexandrovna Yergolskaya, a distant relative, was engaged in the upbringing of the future writer, education - tutors: the German Reselman and the Frenchman Saint-Thomas, who became the heroes of the writer's stories and novels. At the age of 13, the future writer and his family moved to the hospitable house of his father's sister P.I. Yushkova in Kazan.

In 1844, Leo Tolstoy entered the Imperial Kazan University in the Department of Oriental Literature of the Faculty of Philosophy. After the first year, he did not pass the transitional exam and transferred to the Faculty of Law, where he studied for two years, plunging into secular entertainment. Leo Tolstoy, naturally shy and ugly, gained a reputation in secular society as "thinking" about the happiness of death, eternity, love, although he himself wanted to shine. And in 1847 he left the university and went to Yasnaya Polyana with the intention of doing science and "achieving the highest degree of perfection in music and painting."

In 1849, the first school for peasant children was opened on his estate, where Foka Demidovich, his serf, a former musician, taught. Yermil Bazykin, who studied there, said: “There were about 20 of us boys, the teacher was Foka Demidovich, a courtyard man. Under father L.N. Tolstoy, he acted as a musician. The old man was good. He taught us the alphabet, counting, sacred history. Lev Nikolaevich also came to us, also worked with us, showed us his diploma. I went every other day, every other day, or even every day. He always ordered the teacher not to offend us ... ".

In 1851, under the influence of his older brother Nikolai, Lev left for the Caucasus, having already begun to write Childhood, and in the fall he became a cadet in the 4th battery of the 20th artillery brigade stationed in the Cossack village of Starogladovskaya on the Terek River. There he completed the first part of Childhood and sent it to the Sovremennik magazine to its editor N.A. Nekrasov. On September 18, 1852, the manuscript was printed with great success.

Leo Tolstoy served three years in the Caucasus and, having the right to the most honorable St. George Cross for bravery, “conceded” to his fellow soldier, as giving a lifelong pension. At the beginning of the Crimean War of 1853-1856. transferred to the Danube army, participated in the battles of Oltenitsa, the siege of Silistria, the defense of Sevastopol. The then written story "Sevastopol in December 1854" was read by Emperor Alexander II, who ordered to take care of a talented officer.

In November 1856, the already recognized and well-known writer leaves military service and leaves to travel around Europe.

In 1862, Leo Tolstoy married seventeen-year-old Sofya Andreevna Bers. In their marriage, 13 children were born, five died in early childhood, the novels War and Peace (1863-1869) and Anna Karenina (1873-1877) were written, recognized as great works.

In the 1880s Leo Tolstoy survived a powerful crisis, which led to the denial of official state power and its institutions, the realization of the inevitability of death, faith in God and the creation of his own doctrine - Tolstoyism. He lost interest in the usual lordly life, he began to have thoughts of suicide and the need to live right, be a vegetarian, engage in education and physical labor - he plowed, sewed boots, taught children at school. In 1891, he publicly renounced the copyright to his literary works written after 1880.

During 1889-1899. Leo Tolstoy wrote the novel "Resurrection", whose plot is based on a real court case, and scathing articles about the system of government - on this basis, the Holy Synod excommunicated Count Leo Tolstoy from the Orthodox Church and anathematized in 1901.

On October 28 (November 10), 1910, Leo Tolstoy secretly left Yasnaya Polyana, setting off on a journey without a specific plan for the sake of his moral and religious ideas of recent years, accompanied by doctor D.P. Makovitsky. On the way he caught a cold, fell ill with lobar pneumonia and was forced to get off the train at the Astapovo station (now Lev Tolstoy station in the Lipetsk region). Leo Tolstoy died on November 7 (20), 1910 in the house of the head of the station I.I. Ozolin and was buried in Yasnaya Polyana.

The great Russian writer Leo Tolstoy never liked railways. In his mature years, having experienced a "secular" youth, he was a conservative person and at some points opposed many innovations. However, his opinion about the active construction of railways in the Russian Empire was consistently negative - he believed that this element of progress brings only misfortune to mankind.

Very soon, on May 20, "Usadebny Express" will make its second trip outside the Moscow region. We will get acquainted with the Tula estate of Leo Nikolayevich Tolstoy - the world-famous Yasnaya Polyana estate and try to experience all the features of the chamber, bright and surprisingly inspiring family nest of the great writer.

However, our knowledge of the sights of the Tula region associated with the name of Tolstoy will not be limited to Yasnaya Polyana. Passengers of the Manor Express will visit the old Kozlova Zaseka station, which for many years played an important role in the life of the writer, and later became one of the starting points on his journey to eternity.

I invite you to the journey of the Manor Express, which will take place this weekend, May 20. And on the eve of the trip, I present to your attention a small material about the history of the Kozlova Zasek station and its role in the fate of Leo Tolstoy.

Tolstoy confirmed his arguments about his dislike for the railway with weighty arguments: firstly, during the construction of railway lines, the “cheap” way of workers and peasants was always used, many of whom died in the course of their work, and secondly, Tolstoy did not recognize the separation of passenger cars into various “classes” of comfort, considering it an ugly way of self-affirmation of rich people, and, of course, he found something mystical and even sinister in the appearance and atmosphere of locomotives, rails, trains and other important components of the railway infrastructure.

Years later, we may well notice that Lev Nikolayevich's dislike for the railway was a fateful foreboding. And the main station of his life was the Kozlova Zaseka railway platform, located 4.5 kilometers from his Yasnaya Polyana estate. She began acting in 1868. The construction of the station became a necessary logistical solution after the opening of the Moscow-Kursk railway. The launch of the railway station almost next to his estate, Leo Tolstoy noted the traditional - skeptical - reaction. However, as if fate itself decreed in such a way that the "Kozlova Zasek" played a huge role in his life.
In the meantime, the new station has successfully opened and has become one of the busiest places in the area. The Kozlova Zasek got its unusual name in honor of the forests that form a whole defensive line that shelters the Tula lands from enemy raids. And the station received the first part of its compound name thanks to the local voivode Danila Kozlov.

The architectural complex of the station "Kozlova Zaseka" in the 19th century consisted of a commodity office, a railway station, summer cash desks, a canteen, a railway house and other related buildings. "Kozlova Zaseka" was not distinguished by the richness of decor and bizarre architectural solutions. However, this station had one unusual stylistic feature that should be noted. The steps of the main building leading to the waiting room were finished with rails made at the Demidov factory in 1881. Such a decorative element was very symbolic: it not only indicated the ownership of this building, but also immortalized the name of the famous Tula dynasty of industrialists in the history of the station.

In those years, small stations were the centers of social life for residents and visitors of the surrounding area. Here travelers were met and seen off, telegrams were sent and telephone calls were made. Over time, Lev Nikolaevich Tolstoy also became an active user of the station. At Kozlovaya Zasek, the Tolstoys received mail, met their friends who had come to visit Yasnaya Polyana, and used the local telephone. "Kozlova Zaseka" regularly became the final and intermediate point of the famous horse and foot walks of the inhabitants of Yasnaya Polyana.

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Known "Kozlova Zasek" and on the other, sad side. Leo Tolstoy foresaw that the railway stations might play a fatal role in his fate. The mystical prophecy was destined to come true. On November 20, 1910, as a result of an exacerbated illness, the great writer died in the house of the head of the Astapovo station.

On November 9, 1910, the funeral train with the body of Leo Tolstoy arrived at the Kozlova Zaseka station. The coffin with the body of the writer was met by thousands of people, among whom were his relatives, friends, admirers of his talent and concerned residents of the surrounding area. This moment has gone down in Russian history forever.

After the revolution, the station continued to operate - in 1928, on the centenary of the birth of the writer Kozlov Zasek, it was renamed Yasnaya Polyana. Gradually, the significance of this station became less significant, and the ancient buildings themselves began to collapse.

In 2001, the Kozlovaya Zaseka got its historical name back. And soon large-scale restoration work began on the territory of the old station. Historians and builders, in accordance with archival photographs and documents, managed to restore the original appearance of the old station. Today, Kozlova Zaseka fulfills its transport and logistics role, and the station houses a wonderful museum, a visit to which is an obligatory part of the most complete and well-developed excursion programs around Tolstoy's places in the Tula region.

Station "Kozlova Zaseka" (Tula region, Russia) - exposition, working hours, address, phone numbers, official website.

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"Kozlova Zaseka" is not only a full-fledged railway junction that receives commuter, passenger and freight trains, but more recently it has also become a museum. Of course, it is hardly worth going here on purpose (getting acquainted with the exposition and the surrounding area will take no more than half an hour), but as part of the tour to Yasnaya Polyana, it is worth seeing the small station as Leo Tolstoy saw it. Moreover, "Kozlova Zaseka" played an important role in the life of the great writer. Here he received mail, from here he called his friends by phone, here from the Astapovo station a train with the body of Lev Nikolaevich arrived in November 1910.

What to watch

In 2001, large-scale work began on the territory of the old station, as a result of which historians and builders returned the appearance to the station corresponding to archival photographs and documents of the early 20th century. Today "Kozlova Zaseka", as well as 150 years ago, fulfills its transport role. And visiting the museum has recently been an obligatory part of excursion programs in Tolstoy's places.

The toponym Kozlova Zasek has been known since the 14th century. At that time, notches (trees felled by rows of peaks towards the enemy) protected the Tula villages from enemy raids. And the Kozlova notch is named after the boyar Ivan Kozlov. In 1868 a new railway station received the same name. She wore it until 1928, when, in honor of the 100th anniversary of Tolstoy's birth, she became Yasnaya Polyana.

On the main station building there is an inscription in the pre-revolutionary style with the letter "yat" in the middle. Other station buildings: a cellar, a buffet, luggage are also signed in the old manner with "er" at the end. On the other side of the station there is a well (albeit not a real one). Graceful lanterns and a clock with Roman numerals are installed on the platform.

Near the entrance to the main building of the station there is a bust of Tolstoy, on the pedestal of which his quote is carved: "We are all passengers in this life."

The interior of the station is designed in a classic style: neat wooden benches, an openwork mirror, box office bay windows. "Kozlova Zaseka", although it stands on the main branch of the Moscow Railway, trains rarely take. Also in the station building there is a small exhibition "Railway of Leo Tolstoy". It presents old bags, a cane, photographs and a few other things from the beginning of the 20th century. There are small souvenir and book stalls.

Practical Information

Address: Tula region, Yasnaya Polyana ("Kozlova Zasek"). Web site .

From the Moscow railway station in Tula to the "Kozlovaya Zaseka" can be reached by taxi No. 30 and 35.

Opening hours: Wednesday-Sunday: 9:00-16:30, Monday-Tuesday - days off. Entrance: 30 RUB, excursion - 100 RUB, rent of historical costumes for photos: 100 RUB. Prices on the page are for October 2018.