Tambov province: Naryshkin estate Bykova Gora. Bykova Gora Naryshkin estate

I continue to publish a belated report on castles Ryazan region. Today I will tell you about the Naryshkin palace on Bykovaya Hill.

Hello everyone))) These are some unusual remnants from the church that we encountered along the way, if anyone knows what they are, please let us know.


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On the way we came across a newly built but relatively pretty wooden church


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And here’s another pepelats. Apparently it’s also a remake. Apparently there is some kind of tourist area here, but we didn’t find anything interesting except the mill and the church above and moved on.


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So, before us is Bykova Mountain. It was written at the entrance that entry was prohibited, the territory of the monastery and all that. I looked for the monastery for a long time, I wanted to take a bunch of pictures of it, but instead I found only this.


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Here is the Naryshkin estate. A real wooden castle! I have never seen such a miracle anywhere before. Lancet windows, a tower hinting at medieval castle, only it’s all made of wood. A real masterpiece of wooden architecture. I saw something not quite similar, but also unusual, in Makarovka.


Photo 6.

This is the palace on Bykovaya Mountain. Where does the name Bykova come from? Some old-timers associate the name with the name of the local manager, Bykov, while others believe that the name of the place was given by a farm where bulls were fattened. In fact, where Vysha merges with Tsna there is a hillock that from a distance resembles the hump of a bull - hence the name.


Photo 7.

And here is the owner of the estate. Emmanuil Dmitrievich Naryshkin. Master of Ceremonies of His Court Imperial Majesty- actual privy councilor.

IN late XVII century from the Highest command of Peter I - L.K. Naryshkin was given a gift of huge land estates on the territory of the Tambov province. But the fate of this estate is connected with the great-great-grandson of L.K. Naryshkin - Emmanuil Dmitrievich Naryshkin. He was born in 1813 in St. Petersburg. In a short period of time, Emmanuel Dmitrievich managed to make a rapid career at the Court. Served senior official at the Ministry of Internal Affairs, Master of Ceremonies of the Court.

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Naryshkin had a wife, Ekaterina Nikolaevna, whom he loved very much, but unfortunately she died, and this dealt him a serious blow, plus at that moment they canceled serfdom.
The saddened Emmanuel Dmitrievich soon leaves the service and begins to look for a quiet and peaceful place. Bykova Mountain was perfect for this. Here he built a unique estate complex.
Soon the pain of loss goes away and Emmanuel marries a second time. His wife was the famous lady of state of the Supreme Court, Alexandra Nikolaevna Chicherina (1839-1919).

Here he spent several years with her in a happy marriage. At the same time, he continued to maintain close relations and influence in the highest social circles of St. Petersburg.


Photo 9.

The rickety balconies and the estate are not so easy to photograph from afar; everything is overgrown with weeds and trees. And once upon a time there was a beautiful park with greenhouses where apricots and peaches grew.


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Well, let's go inside.


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Old stairs, ready to collapse.


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It’s complete destruction inside, but it’s so hard to believe that life was once seething here.
Dinner parties and festive evenings were held, which were attended by the cream of Russian society of that time.
The estate was visited not only by nobles and merchants.
In September 1886, representatives visited the estate and honored with their presence royal family: Their Imperial Highnesses Grand Duke Sergei Alexandrovich with his wife Grand Duchess Elizabeth Feodorovna and His Imperial Highness Pavel Alexandrovich Romanov.


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Yes, yes, along this very corridor the Grand Dukes Romanovs and Naryshkins walked and talked, and now...


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But probably in this outbuilding there operated an embroidery workshop, famous throughout Russia, under the leadership of the lady herself - where, among other things, the traditions of Russian beadwork, which was experiencing its “golden age” at that time, were cultivated. The Naryshkins established a school for peasant children and a hospital on the estate. They organized a network of small factories: a sawmill, a tar factory, a distillery and a glass factory. The Naryshkins allocated funds free of charge for the construction of public schools, schools, hospitals, shelters, almshouses, and the maintenance of scholarship holders. They built the first building in the country for the Society folk readings, the first shelter in Russia for imprisoned children was opened.


Photo 16.

Emmanuel Dmitrievich died on December 31, 1901 in St. Petersburg. On the evening of the same day, Their Imperial Majesties the Sovereign Emperor Nikolai Alexandrovich and the Empress Alexandra Feodorovna attended the funeral service at the body of the deceased.
Alexandra Nikolaevna, even after the death of Emmanuil Dmitrievich, continued the work of charity: she patronized folk arts and crafts, monitored the work of the Society of Folk Readings and the society for benefiting the needy of the school, being an honorary trustee of the Catherine Teachers' Institute, and maintained a shelter for prison children.
Alexandra Nikolaevna died in Tambov at the hands of the Bolsheviks in 1919. After Naryshkina's death, her property was nationalized.


Photo 17.

There was a pioneer camp and a tuberculosis clinic located here, then the building fell into disrepair, there was no one to repair it in the 90s, and so it fell into disrepair.
In general, my friends, welcome to Naryshkino,


Photo 18.

And drink only our vodka, and not bourgeois wine, as local graffiti tells us.


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Life is good when you drink slowly, and we'll take a leisurely stroll through these ruins.


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We go up to the second floor.


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We're inside the tower


Photo 26.

This is such a completely unusual gallery.


Photo 27.

This is the first time I've ever seen something like this.


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In the end there was a collapse and everything rotted. But the palace has the status of a monument regional significance.


Photo 29.

The windows are certainly stunning. Probably when there was glass there they looked very beautiful.


Photo 30.

So, before us is a cross. I thought, what is this? House church? Somehow it doesn’t seem like it, since we just visited the turret and didn’t find any hints of it.
It turns out that these ruins are, for some reason, owned by the Church. All they did to restore it was put up this cross and the sign “No entry.” But fortunately there is no security guard.


Photo 31.

Ridiculous inscription. Let's laugh together at the monarchs. He was a saint and shot the workers at bloody resurrection, started wars and generally lost all of Rus', which he did not keep. Actually, if we read the Bible and the lives of the saints, then he will pass for a saint (remember the same Saint Elisha). The Lord preserved... well... if what happened to him was preserved by the Lord, then thank God that I am an atheist.


Photo 32.

We go down to the basements. Interesting vaulted and collapsed ones. You have to walk sideways.


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This is such a wonderful, interesting and unique place. We recommend that you visit it before it is demolished and a new building is built in its place, since apparently it cannot be restored because everything is rotten. It’s a pity, of course, for this palace, which could have been preserved if it had been repaired in time. But it seems that local collective farmers had absolutely no desire for beauty, and Khrushchev passed a law against excesses in architecture.


Photo 35.

Well, in the end, a little.... call it what you want, maydauns, Nashists or NODists, let everyone call the flock of sheep whatever they want, it will be funnier and we won’t offend anyone.


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A trip was organized for the participants to the iconic places of the former county (now the Shatsk district of the Ryazan region). Previously I only published, but we also visited former estates Naryshkins: on Bykova Gora and Emmanuilovka. Bykova Gora today presents a sad sight.

The Tambov possessions of the Naryshkins were located in Shatsky, Morshansky, Kozlovsky and Kirsanovsky districts. The largest of them belonged to Sergei Kirillovich and Emmanuil Dmitrievich Naryshkin.

In 1855, retired captain Sergei Kirillovich Naryshkin owned the villages of Borki, Kermis, Svistunovka, the villages of Lvovka, Parsat, Sergeevka and total number serf peasants 2500 male souls. Naryshkin lived either in the village of Kermis or in the village of Borki, the center of his estate, where, according to the 1855 inventory, a large wooden house on a stone foundation with 12 outbuildings and outbuildings. In Kermis there was an office from which the vast estate was managed, and in the village of Svistunovka there was a kind of summer dacha. IN last years Throughout his life, Naryshkin made pilgrimages to monasteries, and from 1853 he lived either in Optina or in the Kaluga Tikhonovskaya hermitage. He lived on his own support and, apparently, in the status of a novice, since in the inventory of things left after his death, there were nine cassocks. Naryshkin’s valet E. Zaikin recalled that the master went to matins, mass and vespers every day. Sergei Naryshkin died in the Tikhonova Hermitage on July 15, 1855 and left a will, according to which he transferred all movable and immovable property to his cousin, lieutenant of the Life Guards Uhlan Regiment HELL. Bashmakov. At the same time, conditions were set, including “to bring 150,000 silver rubles to the Shatskaya Vyshenskaya hermitage for eternal remembrance” of his soul. The money for the monastery was paid over a long period of time, in parts, so it became the basis for the material well-being of the monastery in the following time.

Another representative of the Naryshkin family, who owned vast lands in the Shatsky and Morshansky districts, is Emmanuil Dmitrievich Naryshkin (1813–1901), the most famous of his family in the Tambov region: state and public figure, philanthropist, honorary citizen of the city of Tambov, who built a public reading room building at his own expense. Emmanuel Dmitrievich received large incomes from his estates in Shatsky district (with its center on Bykova Gora) and in Morshansky district (with its center in the village of Kamenka).

In 1849, in the Morshansky district, the lands were sold to retired captain I.V. Pashkov. Since then, all real estate of E.D. Naryshkin was in Shatsky district, where he permanently lived in the Bykova Gora estate. By the early 1870s, a wooden two-story house was built there, reminiscent of a medieval castle. In 1870, after the death of his first wife Ekaterina Nikolaevna (née Novosiltseva, †1869), Naryshkin built a church consecrated in honor of the Holy Great Martyr Catherine. According to the recollections of contemporaries, it was small in size, had “beautiful architecture on the outside and splendid decoration on the inside: an oak carved iconostasis, elegant drawings of icons of high artistic work.”

Emmanuil Dmitrievich married for the second time Alexandra Nikolaevna Chicherina (1839–1919), who later, after the death of her husband, became the last mistress of Bykova Gora, came there in the warm season and led active work. In 1912, in the Nikolsky Cherneevsky Monastery, which then became a women's monastery, a workshop and a shelter for girls were set up at her expense. In 1913, a diocesan girls’ school was opened in Shatsk, and Alexandra Nikolaevna became its honorary trustee, provided the poor pupils with galoshes and boots, and sent two cows from Bykova Gora. With Naryshkina’s funds, church schools were built in the villages of Emmanuilovka and Zhelannaye. She also donated money to the Vyshenskaya Hermitage. The owner constantly furnished Bykova Gora. In 1911–1912, a sawmill was built and began operating. By 1917, four industrial establishments were opened, 106 residential and 46 non-residential buildings were built.

Portrait of Alexandra Nikolaevna Naryshkina (nee Chicherina). Late XIX century

Alexandra Nikolaevna did a lot of useful things for the provincial Tambov. She was a trustee of the Catherine Teachers' Institute, maintained a shelter for imprisoned children, and donated funds for the construction and restoration of churches, as well as for the improvement of the city. Alexandra Naryshkina, like her husband, was awarded the title of honorary citizen of Tambov.

In 1918, the estate at Bykova Gora was nationalized and at first belonged to various institutions, then became empty. The manor buildings were destroyed, the manor house turned into ruins.

Materials from the article by O.Yu. Levin "Naryshkins in Tambov region"("Tambov Antiquity"; 2007, issue 2).

In 1873 - 1875 in the Shatsky district in the Bykova Gora tract, a unique estate complex of E.D. was built. Naryshkina.

Emmanuil Dmitrievich Naryshkin is the great-grandson of L.K. Naryshkin (state councilor).

Emmanuel Dmitrievich quickly moved up the ranks and made a rapid career for himself in the Ministry of Internal Affairs and was a Privy Councilor. He owned a lot of land not only in the Ryazan region. In the Shatsk region he owned an estate, which consisted of 16 villages and 6,190 people.

Here Naryshkin spent several years of his life with his second wife.

The center of the Emmanuilovka estate became a luxurious two-story manor house. Carved balconies, lancet windows, medieval turrets - everything speaks of the wealth of the Naryshkin family. Of course, there was a park with flower beds, flower beds and gazebos. In a word, everything was surrounded by greenery. There was quite a lot going on here active life and the whole flower of Russian society of that time was invited here.

In 1886, the Bykova Gora estate was visited by high-ranking guests: Their Imperial Highnesses Grand Duke Sergei Alexandrovich with his wife Grand Duchess Elizaveta Feodorovna and His Imperial Highness Pavel Alexandrovich Romanov.

In the outbuilding next to the manor house there was an embroidery workshop that became famous throughout Russia.

A school for peasant children and a hospital were also opened on the estate. And a whole network of factories: glass, sawmill, tar, distillery.

They donated money for the construction of schools, hospitals, shelters, and almshouses. They built the country's first building for the Public Reading Society and the first shelter for imprisoned children.

After Naryshkin owned the Bykova Gora estate, a pioneer camp was created here, and then a tuberculosis dispensary. Today the estate is in a dilapidated state...

Now this place evokes more horror, especially for those who approach from the west through the old linden forest. From the wilds of oaks and maples that are found here and there, the traveler will see a wooden building, and coming closer, he may be surprised and die. The ancient manor, entirely made of wood, was overgrown, warped and frozen: the icon on the end speaks of the holiness of the place, here even part of the text is read “... he was a saint. Rus' did not protect, the Lord preserved,” and if you wish, it is possible to get inside - the floors are shaking, but the staircase to the second floor is still quite wow.

There are still legends about Bull Mountain today. Some old-timers associate the name with the name of the local manager, Bykov, while others believe that the name of the place was given by a farm where bulls were fattened. In fact, where Vysha merges with Tsna there is a hillock that from a distance resembles the hump of a bull - hence the name. The fate of Bykova Gora is in a special way connected with the great-great-grandson of Peter the Great’s uncle, Emmanuel Dmitrievich Naryshkin. In the second half of the 17th century, by order of Peter I, Lev Kirillovich Naryshkin was given the lands of the Tambov province as a gift. The episode when Bykova Gora became the estate of Emmanuel Naryshkin was preceded by various events. So, Emmanuel Dmitrievich was born in St. Petersburg on June 30, 1813. He received his education abroad. He married Ekaterina Novosiltsova, the daughter of a real Privy Councilor. Emmanuil Dmitrievich's career progressed rapidly. At court, he served as a senior official in the Ministry of Internal Affairs, then as master of ceremonies at the Court of His Imperial Majesty. His merits were noted by all orders without exception. Russian Empire, including the most honorable and highest - the Order of St. Andrew the First-Called.

Naryshkin's childless marriage was ended by the premature death of his wife. The death of his wife coincided with the abolition of serfdom - these two events radically changed Naryshkin's life. He left the service and settled in the Tambov province. In the Shatsk region, he owned a huge territory, which included villages along the Tsna River - from Polny Konobeev to Aglomazovo, a total of 16 villages and three villages with a population of 6,190 souls, not counting women and children. Not wanting to embarrass the peasants with resettlement, Naryshkin left them almost a third of his lands, and a well-maintained family estate with administrative center in the village of Polnoye Konobeevo with a population of 1300 inhabitants, who had volost government and the bazaar, moved to a new place - in the Bykova Gora tract. There is a mention of Bull Mountain in the book by Pyotr Petrovich Semyonov Tien-Shansky “Complete geographical description our fatherland." Famous traveler wrote that Naryshkin, even before the liberation of the peasants from serfdom, was a rare type of enlightened landowner who “fatherly cared for the welfare of his peasants”; he left a good memory of himself with his donations.

Emmanuel Dmitrievich desired solitude, for which Bykova Gora was ideally suited. Through his efforts, a unique estate complex arose here. Soon Naryshkin married again. His chosen one was the sister of the famous lawyer and philosopher, professor at Moscow University Boris Chicherin - Alexandra Nikolaevna. Emmanuil Dmitrievich spent several years in a happy marriage, and the estate on Bykova Gora became a kind of summer residence for the Naryshkins. The center of the estate was a spacious two-story manor house - a building with intricate lancet windows, closed passages, medieval turrets and carved balconies, which offered a picturesque view of the floodplain meadows of the Tsna River. In one of the halls of the manor’s house there was an extensive library, where hundreds of volumes of priceless books were stored and read, periodicals in Russian and foreign languages. Trying to preserve the good memory of his first wife, Naryshkin built a miniature wooden church in the original Russian and strict Orthodox style, in honor of the Holy Great Martyr Catherine, the heavenly patroness of his first wife. According to the recollections of contemporaries, it was “small in size”, had “beautiful architecture on the outside and splendid decoration on the inside, an oak carved iconostasis, elegant drawings of icons of high artistic work.”

All the estate buildings were immersed in the greenery of a shady garden and park, decorated with luxurious flower beds, gazebos and a pond. Overseas peaches and apricots ripened in the greenhouses. The entire estate was kept in exemplary condition. Despite the fact that Bykova Gora was located far from the city noise, social life was quite lively there - dinner parties were held. A frequent guest on Bykova Gora was the Minister of the Court, Count Illarion Vorontsov-Dashkov and his family. Distinguished guests from the Romanov family also visited the estate. Naryshkin’s wife also glorified the estate throughout Russia by organizing an embroidery workshop next to the manor’s house. Here, girls embroiderers also wove beads; their work was generously paid, because they came to work several kilometers from the surrounding villages. The girls made wedding dresses, carpets, and lace to decorate scarves and linen. The Naryshkins established a school for peasant children and a hospital on the estate. Emmanuel Dmitrievich organized a whole network of factories on Bykova Gora - a sawmill, a tar factory, a distillery and a glass factory, so that the population was always in business and had money. And the proceeds from the factories went to charity. Thus, not far from Bykova Gora, the Church of St. Sergius of Radonezh, erected at the expense of Naryshkin not far from Bykova Gora in a village that was later renamed Emmanuilovka in his honor, has survived and is still in operation.

The Naryshkins also helped by donating funds for the construction of public schools, schools, hospitals, shelters, almshouses, and the maintenance of scholarship holders. Thus, at the expense of Emmanuel Dmitrievich, in memory of his first wife, the Catherine Teachers’ Institute, the provincial public library"Naryshkin reading room" local history museum in Tambov. The country's first building for the People's Reading Society was built, and Russia's first shelter for imprisoned children was opened. Emmanuel Dmitrievich made donations (about 700 thousand rubles) for public education in the Tambov province and more than 300 thousand rubles for a new building of a religious school in Shatsk. He died on December 31, 1901 in St. Petersburg. In Tambov, admirers arranged a funeral arch with the inscription: “To the Enlightener of the People, Grateful Tambov,” near which a litiya was performed. Naryshkin was buried in the Kazan Monastery, in a specially prepared crypt.

Naryshkin’s business was continued by his wife, who became the last mistress of Bykova Gora. Having lost her husband, Alexandra Naryshkina came here in the summer and autumn. She lived alone, surrounded by servants, but did not tolerate peace. The Naryshkinsky forest from Vyshi to Shatsk was transformed during Naryshkina’s time: she patronized folk arts and crafts, monitored the work of the Folk Readings Society, and maintained a shelter for imprisoned children. In 1913, the Diocesan Women's School was opened in Shatsk, Alexandra Nikolaevna supplied the poor pupils with galoshes and boots, and sent two cows to the school from Bykova Gora. It is being built with Naryshkina’s funds church school in Emmanuilovka and Zhelanny. She donates to the Vyshinskaya Hermitage and even wants to set up a hospital there. Alexandra Nikolaevna’s life was interrupted in 1919 in Tambov at the hands of the Bolsheviks. All her property was nationalized. Subsequently, a pioneer camp was located on the estate on Bykova Gora, then a tuberculosis dispensary. Resources have been exhausted, and the mutilated estate is, by the way, a monument historical significance, - “due to the dilapidation of the buildings” they threw it at the “balance of nature.” The manor house became empty and lost its former grandeur, the magnificent park was overgrown, and a unique library was used to light the furnace. In the early nineties of the last century, nuns began to move to the hermitage from the Holy Dormition Vyshensky Monastery. And by 2004, Bykova Gora became his farmstead.

Nowadays, getting to Bykova Gora is not so easy. On the maps (which were last used in the eighties and since then have been reprinted only by changing the year of publication and they are also uploaded to GPS navigators) Bykova Gora has a signature - non-residential. You can get there along the Ryazan - Shatsk - Konobeevo - Vysha highway, and before reaching the last one, turn left along the asphalt.