P damn Rostov. Railway station Chertkovo, Rostov region: description, schedule, further fate

Chertkovo is an urban-type settlement located in the north of the Rostov region in the zone of the Don steppes. Its main feature is that different parts of the village ended up on different sides of the Russian-Ukrainian border. The dividing line is the North Caucasian Railway, or rather, the street of Friendship of Peoples, running along it. The same factor predetermined the fate of the railway station Chertkovo.

Geography of Chertkovo and Chertkovsky district of the Rostov region

Chertkovo is located on the western border of the Rostov region in its northern part. natural conditions correspond to the steppe zone with forest-steppe elements.

In general, the climate is temperate continental. The average annual temperature is +7.9 degrees, and the amount of precipitation for the year is 546 mm. Because of global warming the summer became hotter and longer, and moreover, drier. Winters are moderately frosty, with winds and snowstorms.

The terrain is flat, but undulating. Nearby is the Don ridge. Steppe landscapes and farmlands predominate.

Chertkovsky district belongs to the river basin. Belaya Kalitva (tributary and basin of the Don), however, the riverbed is located at a distance of 8 km from Chertkovo station.

Industry in the area is currently underdeveloped, and industrial facilities have become historical monuments. Often they are represented by ruins concentrated along the railway line.

The population of Chertkovo is 10-11 thousand people and changes little over time.

History of Chertkovo village and Chertkovo station

The time of the appearance of the village is still unknown. The first mention of it is associated with the construction railway, which at that time was called the Voronezh-Rostov. From the side of present-day Ukraine was the Kharkov province, and from the side of Russia - the region of the Don Cossacks. The main building of the station was built back then. Chertkovo station appeared in 1869. The name was given to her by the name of Mikhail Ivanovich Chertkov - chieftain Don army who was the initiator of the construction of the railway in the area.

Chertkovo station appears on the map of 1876, and is also listed in the list of settlements of the Don Cossacks for 1873.

In 1905, Chertkovo became one of the regional centers of the revolutionary militia. A management committee was formed here. revolutionary activity workers and employees of the railway and Chertkovo station.

After 1929, the settlement was listed as a worker. In 1993, he was given the status of a rural settlement.

Features of the railway station

Chertkovo station is located at the address: 346000, Rostov region, Chertkovsky district, Chertkovo settlement, st. Privokzalnaya, d. 1. You can get to it by bus number 1. The station has parking (including special places for the disabled) and a left-luggage office. There is an information desk, a ticket exchange office, a police department, a cafe, ATMs. The station itself is represented by a one-story station building. At some distance from it there is a control room.

The station was built over 100 years ago. is an individual architectural solution and is a relatively young building. AT close proximity from the station is a radio tower.

Station dividing line

Railway station Chertkovo ( Rostov region) is located on the dividing line of the Russian-Ukrainian border, on the Russian (that is, northeast) side of the railway. Right behind railroad tracks a relatively high blue fence was erected separating Russia and Ukraine. The transition to the territory of Ukraine is possible along the railway bridge, the last stairway of which ends already behind the dividing fence. It is mainly intended for local residents.

Features of the functioning of the station in the past and present

Chertkovo is located on the border of the North Caucasian and South-Eastern railways. Until recently, passenger trains passed through it in transit and at high speed. long distance. Many made a short stop at the station. It is also the final destination for the Rostov-Chertkovo electric train. The schedule of Chertkovo station is now reduced to the schedule of this train. The electric train runs daily, departing from Rostov-on-Don at 15:50 and arriving at the station at 22:04. Travel time from Rostov to Chertkovo is 6 hours 14 minutes.

All freight trains going in this direction also passed here.

After the completion of the construction of the bypass section of the railway connecting the settlements of Zhuravka ( Voronezh region) and Millerovo (Rostov region), the movement of passenger trains through Chertkovo station was stopped. After December 11, 2017, not a single passenger and freight train passes through it.

Features of the life of the population on both sides of the station

The railway station Chertkovo practically did not serve trains going through the territory of Ukraine. They only went through Russian squads. Although the Ukrainian part of the village is officially listed as a separate settlement (the village of Melovoe), they are geographically separated only by a railway and a newly built border fence.

It turns out an extraordinary contrast between the level of transport support of the Russian and Ukrainian parts. While the inhabitants of the Russian part could easily get into almost any Big City Russian Federation, simply by buying a ticket for one of the trains passing through the station, Ukrainian residents do not have a full-fledged transport connection with the rest of Ukraine. Rare buses on which you need to shake for several hours on bumpy roads to get to regional center Lugansk region - Severodonetsk, and personal cars (mostly still Soviet cars) - that's the entire transport arsenal of local residents.

However, now residents of Russian Chertkovo may also feel the deterioration of the situation with passenger transportation (due to the cessation of train traffic through the station).

In addition to differences in transport provision, between the two separated railway lines settlements there are other contrasts, often reflecting the nature of the way of life in Russia and Ukraine.

So, amateur photographers who have been there note various signs of desolation and neglect in the Cretaceous. For example, such as broken roads, overgrown monuments to the victims of the Second World War, lack of road markings, a very rural appearance of the streets and the village as a whole.

While Chertkovo, on the contrary, looks neat and well-groomed, with large quantity road signs, high-quality road markings, pavement tiles, neat flower beds, lawns and so on.

In numerous photographs, one can also notice that on the Ukrainian territory (Melovoye) old Soviet-made cars are common, while on the Russian (Chertkovo) - modern Western models (foreign cars).

The future fate of the station

The question of what will happen to the Chertkovo station is now almost impossible to answer. The specialists who worked there are moving to Millerovo and other stations of the current and new railway. Obviously, the maintenance of only local electric trains will lower its status from the federal to the local level.

The termination of the transit movement of trains will make the station Chertkovo a dead end. The entire section of the railway from Zhuravka to Chertkovo will become non-functional and will be transferred for the most part to the ownership of Ukraine. This will be due to the fact that it passes beyond the Russian-Ukrainian border. South of Chertkovo there are also separate local railway line calls to the territory of a neighboring state, which, in the event of a further aggravation of relations between countries, may lead to full stop station operation.

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What do you see in this photo? An ordinary street of an ordinary Russian town.. Or, no, an ordinary street of an ordinary Ukrainian town. Or, nevertheless, Russian? No, Ukrainian. Not...
Yes, everything is both simple and amazing at the same time! One side of this street is Russia and the other side is Ukraine!

This place is amazing in every sense, it is strange to everyone. Two urban-type settlements separated by a border running along the Moscow-Adler railway line. In fact, this is a single village, which it has always been. The village of Chertkovo, Rostov region Russian Federation and the village of Melovoe, Luhansk region of Ukraine.
1. Here is how the map looks like. It shows the places where the photos were taken.

2. The place is very strange. If only because, despite the fact that the two countries have a strong relationship with each other .. well, at least they interacted in the past, many travelers and just people from both countries travel to each other, very few people come here, almost none of my acquaintances are here was.
At the same time, the Russian Chertkovo is located on the busiest railway line in the country, from here you can go by direct train to Moscow, St. Petersburg, Sochi and many other cities almost at any time of the day. Ukrainian Cretaceous is located in the wildest hole, from the point of view of Ukrainian geography, this is really a bearish corner. 4 hours on a dead minibus on bumpy roads to get from the new regional center of the Luhansk region - Severodonetsk (previously, about the same amount had to go from Luhansk). You can come here several times a day.

Here is such a strange combination: on the one hand, a complete hole, on the other, the most tense railway artery of the country.

3. Both villages are quite small, you can get around each in an hour and a half. The border runs mainly by rail: everything to the southwest of the line is Ukraine, to the northeast is Russia. Arriving by bus in Melovoe, you immediately get straight to it. Here we are at the site of the bus station, but that bridge across the tracks is already the territory of another country.

3. Right next to the bridge is Chertkovo station, where most of the trains going to the Caucasus stop. You can see it very well from here. Therefore, it is very difficult to answer the question - is Cretaceous on the railroad? Yes and no. Formally - you can cross the border and leave by train. But it’s impossible to leave from here to any Ukrainian city! It turns out that the people of Melovo, listening around the clock to the sound of the wheels of the cars, and observing numerous passenger trains, in most cases will not use them.


Although, formally, again, it is still more interesting. Before the 2014 conflict, it was really impossible to leave here for any Ukrainian city. And after .. there was an opportunity to get to Kharkov! This is because the Kharkiv-Baku train, which previously ran through the Donbass, has now begun to travel here. And he is still on the move. This is how you can travel from Ukraine to Ukraine through Russia.

4. With bridge interesting story. It has the status of a local crossing, only residents of adjacent areas can cross here. And earlier, according to the stories of the locals, it was not necessary to walk through it at all - those with a stroller were pushing straight across the tracks, violating both the law on illegal border crossing and the ban on walking along the tracks. With the aggravation of relations, Ukraine has complicated the rules for the entry of Russians, which in this case resulted in a ban on Chertkovites walking across the bridge, and Russia in response, for some reason, erected a fence along the border. This fence didn't exist before. Now, accordingly, the bridge is working, but only residents of Melovo can walk through it.

5. Let's see how Cretaceous looks like. Actually, it doesn't really matter what it looks like. Directly at the bus station are mini-markets and a Soviet-style department store. Previously, not only Chertkovites, but also residents of all the surrounding regions of the Rostov region, massively complained here for cheap Ukrainian products.

6. Roads in the Cretaceous are traditionally dead for the country.

7. There is a monastery.

8. In general, Ukraine is not felt at all in the Cretaceous. Well, that's exactly the same as in the central part of the country or, scary to say, in the Western. You walk here and wonder - is it possible that in the same country there are Berehove, Rakhiv, Lvov, Kolomyia. A completely different world.

9. Monument to the Great Patriotic War. It has become even interesting - are there any monuments to the "Heavenly Hundred" and the ATO. Somehow it seems completely impossible to have them.

10. Pointer. However, the street, most likely, is already called differently. There are no signs left, and new ones have not yet been hung up. Miraculously found this one.

11. Life in ads. In both languages.

12. "The best people Melovsky district.

13. House of communication. Red brick from the Soviet era. When, I suppose, there was no difference at all between the different sides of the railway, and such an inscription lined with bricks could only identify one part from the other.

14. Shops preserved from the Soviet era.

15. Museum of Local Lore. Went there and talked in detail with the worker. I asked her about local realities:
- Tell me, did the monument to Lenin remain in Melovoye?
- No, there was, but they removed it. We have a law on decommunization, we fulfill it.
- Well, yes. It's just that Ukraine is somehow very weakly felt here. I was now in many places: in central Ukraine, in eastern Ukraine, everything is somehow different here. Do you have any monuments to "Heavenly Hundred", "ATO"?
- No, they haven't done it yet. You understand, we have a specific area, none of ours was there on the Maidan. And it is planned to make a memorial to the veterans of the ATO, so we are now preparing a stand here in the museum.

16. Along the border, the main street of the Cretaceous - Friendship of Peoples - stretches in both directions. She looks inconspicuous. You never think that those pillars contact network on the left in the background is another country.

17. Here, the usual private sector. Just imagine that you have a site. But along one of its edges is the real state border! Over there, by the way, is the water tower of the Chertkovo station.

18. Periodically there are tablets.

19. The most interesting fact is that the railway is not always a border. In some places, Russia comes to the western side. So, in particular, the elevator and the meat processing plant, which are clearly visible from the iron, are Russian territory. So if you walk along Druzhby Narodov Street, then you will just run into the Chertkov meat-packing plant. It goes without saying that you don’t have to go there, but you need to turn off.

20. We leave on the parallel Rabochaya Street. On the left is the fence of the Chertkovsky meat processing plant, which is also the border of the two largest European countries. Further more interesting.

21. After the elevator ends, to the left towards the railway. another street departs from the path. This is Happy Lane. It is interesting that formally it continues on the other side of the railway. Here the lane looks something like this!

22. The border runs right down the middle of the alley! Here I am in Ukraine, and the house in front of me is Russia! And there is no way to get into it. Don't ask for water or anything.

23. The inscription, of course, is on the Russian side. On the Russian side of the thorn, a border guard was sitting, talking with some peasant and looking at me unkindly. However, I reasoned that he could not do anything to me since I was not on his side.

24. See how interesting the border line is. Right between the sections. Here he lived for himself, and one day you got a thorn. And now you don’t even go to your neighbor’s for matches .. And imagine that it’s quite realistic that in order to go for matches or onions, you will need to get a visa ... Truly, here it is Berlin Wall new time.

25. A resident of this house can travel to Europe without visas, but a resident of what is further away with a black roof cannot. The thorn, by the way, was also put up by Russia, although it seems like Ukraine is trying to fence itself off from us.

26. On one of the houses met. And this is the Ukrainian side. Those. it's kind of a bug. And go through a little thorn in a different way - a well-bred law-abiding citizen.

27. Then again a street with Ukrainian houses. Through the openings you can see Russian Railways trains passing every 15-20 minutes.

28. The street again rests on the territory of Russia, but there are no more thorns there. There is MPS Street - a Russian enclave consisting of two houses. Residents of these houses have to go through the territory of Ukraine to get to the main part of Chertkov. Literally now, right at the time of writing the post, while reading the transport forum in parallel, I accidentally stumbled upon reportage on how they are relocated from there.

29. Well, we will return to the center of the village. Oschadbank and the Great and Autocratic in the background.

30. Having walked along the backyards of the Cretaceous, passing parallel to the border streets, I returned to the market square. And next to it is such an unremarkable parking lot, about which at first I did not suspect anything.

31. The bottom line is that this parking lot is also Russia! Strictly speaking, you can't enter it. And here is the poster that hangs there, which I photographed, but the contents of which I did not pay attention to. It is written in Ukrainian, and I did not read carefully, but in vain ..

32. I thought it was just about the fact that Russia is on the other side of the railway, but no! It is here that Russia also enters this side of the highway. And if you go along Druzhby Narodov Street to the north-west of the market, then Russia will be on one side of the street, and Ukraine on the other! Here I am walking along the left side of the street, and I don’t suspect that my homeland is already here, on the right side. The fence is already Russian!

33. Stepnoy Lane, abutting a special passage into the main part of Chertkov for Chertkov residents living on this side.

34. A road sign with a clearly Russian texture (which I also didn’t immediately pay attention to), there is no such background in Ukraine (despite the fact that the Russian language is rare on official posters, but it happens) and the font is slightly different.

35. The fact that the signs "the state border of Ukraine" suddenly began to go on the left side of the road surprised me at first, but I thought that, well, they must have been mistaken.

36. And here it is, Friendship of Peoples Street in all its glory! Residents of the houses on the right can officially use Yandex, contact, 1C, read this post without a VPN. And residents of houses on the left are prohibited from doing so. According to the photo, however, it is not completely clear to which of the people present in the photo what is possible and what is not.

37. The same elevator, which is clearly visible from the train.

38. Actually, I wanted to buy delicious Ukrainian beer, juice and, in general, some food for the road. But not everything I wanted was found in the department store near the market. And I decided to go to this store. And then I look at you! Damn it! It was only then that I began to see clearly!

39. Of course, only Russian goods are sold there, and, of course, for rubles. And the choice is very poor. Pay attention to the address. The street is one, the name is one and the numbering is continuous, only the countries are different!

39a. Friendship of Peoples house 39 is Ukraine, and house 94 is Russia!

40. I already had such that I moved to another country and did not immediately understand it. It was on the border in the city of Chui. I didn’t think that I would end up in Russia so completely by accident!

41. And here, of course, is the question. What the hell, in general, all these borders are stupid? Why can't the border between Russia and Ukraine be the same as between Brazil and Uruguay? Our countries are even closer to each other. In principle, until 2014, it was about the same here. But even then, not really. Now, Druzhby Narodov Street is probably the last place where you can calmly and conditionally legally pass from one country to another like this ..

42. Stop, painted in a patriotic frenzy in the colors of the national flag. If the same stop was on the other side of the street, it would already look completely different.

43. In Melovoye, my documents were checked 2 times. The first time - when I was still near the parking lot with a sign. A car stops, a man gets out, shows his ID.
- Hello, State Border Service of Ukraine. May I have your documents? And then you something all day here go back and forth, take pictures of something. Did you enter legally? Good. Lucky road.
The second time after leaving the devil's store. Stops "nine" with a Ukrainian flag.
- Good afternoon, State Border Service of Ukraine. Submit your documents, please.
- Yes, here. I have just been checked by your colleagues. I'm on my way to the border crossing.
- Oh, yes, I have a Russian passport, I have an entry stamp. Look, you are formally staying with us, please go to the border crossing on this side of the street, you cannot cross it. Until you have crossed the border, you have no right to be there. Don't just like you're running back and forth across the road. And now there is every reason to attract you for illegal crossing. And yours can be annoying too.
- Yes, do you have to? I did not think, I thought that since there are no thorns or walls, then this means that this is all Ukraine. And the border along the railway. passes. I just wanted to buy food, I thought it was a Ukrainian store.
- No, you see. Here is the street, the roadway. She cannot be fenced off. Okay, good luck! There is a shop near the border crossing where you can buy food.

44. A reasonable question that interested me was the life of Chertkovo-Melovoy in the light of recent relations between countries. And then I, again, asked the museum worker Svetlana in detail.
- What can I say, of course it is felt. It got a little worse. Previously, everything Chertkovo was bought from us, people from all over the district came to us, and from all the neighboring ones, even from Millerovo they went. Well, it's cheap here, and the food is natural. They lived like one family. And now, they don't let them in, and we, of course, suffer greatly from this. It's not good for us here.
- Do you yourself go to Chertkovo?
- Yes, of course, I go there from time to time, I have both relatives and friends there. But you know I recent times I don’t really like to go there - when they get drunk, these conversations start right away, I’m tired of them. Apparently it still feels - you have your own country, we have our own country.
Was it calm here in 2014? Didn't the fighting come here?
- No, it didn't come here. But once we were well fired at. And it was really scary. Who could shoot? Well, it’s clear who, if from all three sides Russia. We have nowhere to go .. And no one believes us! Nothing was shown in the news about Cretaceous, neither in one nor in the other. I call my relatives in Kyiv, I say that I saw it myself, and they "well, it can't be like that." We've been through a lot here. Of course, not like in Lugansk, or Stanitsa, there was generally horror there. But all the border guards drove through us, who were squeezed out from the frontier posts by the separatists. Here they are through Russian territory everyone came to us. It was hard to look at them, in what condition they were brought here.

45. Well, and, in fact, we came to the border crossing. All Russians and all Ukrainians cross the border here, except for the inhabitants of Melovoye. Citizens of third countries go to other border crossings, the closest one is in Kharkiv. This one is interstate. Walk from the center to here about 1.7 km.

46. ​​The Ukrainian border guard asks me why I'm crossing here, because there is more comfortable. We get an exit stamp, we go to the Russian side. We pass directly under the railway bridge. Yes, these transitions are also clearly visible from the train.

47. On the Russian side, there is a fortification in front of the checkpoint. I wonder why it's here? It is clear that the Ukrainians in paranoia put them at home, but what are we afraid of ??

48. And, having passed the Russian border, we find ourselves in Chertkovo.

49. Beautiful steppe landscapes around!

50. In principle, it seems to be an ordinary, unremarkable village. But immediately there is a feeling that something is not right.

51. Pointer to the crossing from the Russian side.

52. The atmosphere here is completely different than in Cretaceous. It is felt in some small things that cannot be conveyed, but now you understand that there is Ukraine, and here it is already Russia.

53. MFC against the backdrop of a rare sign.

54. However, objectively speaking, after 3 weeks of Ukraine, the first thing that catches your eye in Chertkovo is grooming and accuracy.

55. Tiles, flower beds - and this is in a provincial district center! In Ukraine, this is not in everyone regional center will!

56. Memorial of the Great Patriotic War. Well maintained and cleaned. Compare with what is on the other side of the railway!

57. Such posters are already unthinkable literally 100 meters from this place.

58. As well as St. George ribbons.

59. Commentators like to write to me that in "Russia you can find the same amount of shit." Well, of course you can. But here are just two randomly taken district centers. adjacent to each other. Here is just the center of Chertkov, and above you saw the center of Cretaceous. I assure you, you will not find such tiles, flowers and markings in any place.

68. However, walking along Chertkov is not so interesting anymore. Everything on the eastern side of the railway is already far from the border line. Ukraine is already faintly visible here and is not particularly felt. Even if you walk along the railroad, you will see Russia from the other side too.

69. Border guards letting Chertkovites living on the western side. Of course, approaching the border from the Russian side is much more difficult and fraught with problems. It is Ukraine that has no concept of "border zone" in principle.

70. After the drama that I saw on the other side of the railway, the local reality is not so impressive. Therefore, after wandering for 40 minutes, I bought a train ticket and left for Moscow.

71. And here, in fact, the station of the South-Eastern Railway, located on the territory of Ukraine. And unlike the Cretaceous, not on the border, but strongly inside it.

72. In fact, there the piece of iron enters Ukraine as many as 2 times. After Zorinovka, it leaves for Russia, and comes back for a little longer. There is also one very small stop there. In general, the signs "State Border of Ukraine" regularly flicker either to the left or to the right of the railway. canvases.

73. The second call ends when the train passes the Gartmashevka station. This is the Voronezh region.

74. This is how you really see enough propaganda, and you will believe in " different nations"that "Europeans" live on this side of the piece of iron, and on that side "Putin's fans, genetic slaves, from whom it is better to stay away."

75. Residents on the odd side of Druzhby Narodov Street should stop communicating with their neighbors on the even side of Druzhby Narodov Street, Vyatrovich believes. Just yes, yes different sides genetically different peoples live, between which, as everyone knows, there is nothing in common.

76. Perhaps, Chertkovo - Cretaceous - one of the most powerful impressions of the entire trip. Well, even b, a double village between our country and the country most discussed over the past 3 years, where the border passed right through the houses, and in some places - along a double continuous one, where you can safely cross it illegally without even guessing about it. Well, plus, such an unusual logistical combination - the wilderness forgotten by God, and the central highway. In general, it’s more likely to be surprised how the idea didn’t occur to me and other lovers of such places to come here earlier ..

77. One way or another, all this splendor will disappear very soon. Bypass Ukraine, which was talked about so much, and which at the time of my visit was still at the final stage, but still was not ready, has now been opened. And very soon trains will stop running through Chertkovo. In this connection, the place, although it will remain so unusual, will lose some of its charm. When the caravans of Russian trains do not go near the Melovites, it will not be quite the same. Well, they are slowly relocating Chertkovites from the western side of the railway to the eastern one.

78. And I will finish with a wish to all of you located on the Devil's side. Melovtsy, Chertkovtsy, Ukrainians, Russians, just ..

I hope that the thing for which the main street of these two villages is named after will come as soon as possible.